BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO

'Brunello di Montalcino' is a red Italian wine produced in the vineyards surrounding the town of Montalcino located about 70 miles southwest of Florence. Brunello is a local name for Sangiovese in Italian, and is one of the best-known (and expensive) wines of Italy. Well-made Brunellos are capable of aging for long periods of time, given their high tannin content.^[1]

Contents

Climate

History

Regulations

Wines

Other DOCs

External links

References

Climate

Montalcino has one of the warmest climates in Tuscany and the grapes in the area ripen up to a week earlier than in nearby Vino Nobile di Montepulciano and Chianti Classico. There are distinct micro-climates among the northern and southern slopes of Montalcino. The northern slopes receive fewer hours of sunlight and are generally cooler than the southern slopes. Vineyards planted on the northern slopes tend to produce wines that are racier and more aromatic, while the southern slopes tend to produce wines with more power and complexity. The top producers in the area have vineyards on both slopes, and make use of a blend of both styles.

History

Although the modern rules for making Brunello were first laid down by the Biondi Santi family in the late 1880s, the current industry has its roots in the 1960s when there were only a handful of producers. Even as recently as 1975, the total number of producers was approximately 25 vintners producing approximately 70,000 cases of Brunello total. According to the Consorzio di Vini di Brunello di Montalcino, in 1995 120 producers made 300,000 cases. Today there are well over 200 producers in the Consorzio. The production has risen to over 6,000,000 bottles, or 500,000 cases.

Regulations

Brunello must be made from 100% Brunello clone of Sangiovese. An abundance has been written about this clone. To be clear, Sangiovese takes on many interations throughout the greater Tuscan region, including grapes with various natural local mutations and clonal variations. The term Brunello captures the "field blend" unique to Montalcino vineyards as defined by the Consorzio of Brunello producers, which incorporates virtually all of Montalcino's winemaking estates. Established in 1967 just after Italian authorities declared Brunello one of the country's first DOC classified wines, this regulatory body, by a decree passed in 2001, controls all major and many minor aspects of marketing and production protocols for the zone. In common wine parlance, Brunello as a cultivar has been variously presented as a synonym for "Sangioveto", "Sangiovese Grosso", and "Prugnolo Gentile" among others. None is incorrect as the age-old lore of local farmers defining the grape by size and character gave way in the 20th century to clonal research performed by the University of Milan (1977 and on-going) that initially identified approximately 600 variations across the Brunello "field blend" of Sangiovese, the substantial majority of which are clone representations within the "Sangiovese Grosso" typology. Science aside, Brunello, then, while being both an original (and trademarked) term captures the true essence of this bio-complexity in a single user-friendly term.
When the regulations were put into force most producers will separate their production between a ''normale'' and ''riserva'' bottling. The ''normali'' bottles are released on the market 50 months after harvest and the ''riserva'' are released a year afterward. The current aging requirements were established in 1998 and dictate that Brunellos are to be aged in wood for 2 years and at least 4 months in a bottle before release.
Traditionally, the wines are aged 3 years or so "''in botte''," large oak casks that impart little oak flavor but allow for the controlled softening of the wine. Modernists use small barrique which impart a more pronounced oak flavor. There is a middle ground where the wine is aged in small barrique for a short time and then spends a longer sojourn in the traditional botte.
While there are wineries that follow traditional processes and still make dark and rich wines, the reason for this is the conditions of the soils and the micro-climates of the vineyards. This contrasts to winemaking processes that reduce the time ''in botte'' or eliminate it entirely, and follow fermentation methods designed to extract more color and tannin from the grapes.

Wines

A glass of Brunello.

Brunello is often compared with the Pinot noir wines of Burgundy with its smooth tannins and ripe, fruit driven character. The wines are available to be consumed soon after release but generally hit their prime six to eight years after harvest. The wines have good aging ability with some producers regularly making wines that still improve within the bottle for more than 20 years. The high acidity of the wine allows it to pair well with food, especially grilled meat and game. A large portion of Brunello sold in the United States is purchased in restaurants.^[2]
Casanova di Neri ''Tenuta Nuova'' 2001 Brunello di Montalcino was named Wine Spectator's 2006 "Wine of the Year". ^[3]

Other DOCs

Rosso di Montalcino, is the other main DOC from Montalcino. This wine has few restrictions on aging other than it may not be released prior to September 1 of the year following the vintage. It is required to be 100% Brunello grape grown in a strictly delimited zone within the area of Montalcino. It can range from a soft easy to drink when young style to a wine capable of long aging when made by a fine wine estate in a great vintage.

External links

★ 'Montalcino and Brunello di Montalcino'

References

1. J. Suckling "''Brunello di Montalcino:The Wines''" The Wine Spectator pg 42 July 31st, 2007
2. J. Suckling "''Brunello di Montalcino:The Wines''" The Wine Spectator pg 43 July 31st, 2007
3. ''Wine of the Year'' Wine Spectator Dec. 31st, 2006 pg 45