CADES COVE

'Cades Cove' is an isolated valley located in the East Tennessee section of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The valley was once home to numerous settlers before the formation of the national park around it. Today Cades Cove is the single most popular destination for visitors to the park, which is itself the most visited national park in the United States, attracting over two million visitors a year, due to its well preserved homesteads, scenic mountain views, and abundant display of wildlife[1].

Contents

Geology

History

Early history

European Settlement

Religion In Cades Cove

The Civil War

Moonshining and Prohibition

The National Park

Historical Structures in Cades Cove

Touring

Notes

Geology

Cades Cove is a type of valley known as a "limestone window," created when erosion weathers through the older Precambrian sandstone and exposes the younger Paleozoic limestone beneath.^[1] More weather-resistant formations, such as the Cades sandstone which comprises Rich Mountain to the north and the Elkmont and Thunderhead sandstones which comprise the Smokies crest to the south have surrounded the cove, leaving it relatively isolated within the Great Smokies. Like neighboring limestone windows such as Tuckaleechee to the north and Wear Cove to the east, the weathering of the limestone produced deep, fertile soil, making Cades Cove attractive to early farmers.^[2]
The majority of the rocks that make up Cades Cove are unaltered sedimentary rocks formed between 340 million and 570 million years ago during the Ordovician period.^[3] The Precambrian rocks that comprise the high ridges surrounding the cove are Ocoee Supergroup sandstones, formed approximately 1 billion years ago.^[4] The mountains themselves were formed between 200 million and 400 million years ago during the Appalachian orogeny, when the North American and African plates collided, thrusting the rock formations upward.^[5]
The fracturing and weathering of the limestone and sandstone in Cades Cove has led to the formation of several caves in the vicinity, the two largest of which are Gregory's Cave and Bull Cave.^[2] Bull Cave, at 924 feet (281 m), is the deepest cave in Tennessee.[2] Trilobite and brachiopod fossils have been found in Gregory's Cave.^[7]

History

Early history

Throughout the 1700s, the Cherokee used two main trails to cross the Smokies from North Carolina
to Tennessee en route to the Overhill settlements. One was the Indian Gap
Trail, which connected the Rutherford Indian Trace in the Balsam Mountains to
the Great Indian Warpath in modern-day Sevier County. The other was a
lower trail that crested at Ekaneetlee Gap, a col just east of Gregory
Bald.^[8] This trail traversed Cades Cove and
Tuckaleechee Cove before proceeding along to Great Tellico and other Overhill towns along the Little Tennessee River. European traders
were using these trails as early as 1740.^[9]
By 1797 (and probably much earlier), the Cherokee had established a settlement
in Cades Cove known as "Tsiya'hi," or "Otter Place."^[10]
This village, which may have been little more than a seasonal hunting camp, was
located somewhere along the flats of Cove Creek.^[11] Henry
Timberlake, an early explorer in East Tennessee, reported that streams in this
area were stocked with otter, although the otter was extinct in the cove by the
time the first European settlers arrived.^[12]
Cades Cove was named after a Tsiya'hi leader known as Chief Kade.^[13] Little is known of Chief Kade, although his existence was verified
by a European trader named Peter Snider (1776-1867), who settled nearby
Tuckaleechee Cove.^[12] Abrams Creek, which flows through
the cove, was named after another local chief, Abraham of Chilhowee. A
now-discredited theory suggested that the cove was named after Abraham's wife,
Kate.^[15]
The Treaty of Calhoun (1819) ended all Cherokee claims to the Smokies, and
Tsiya'hi was abandoned shortly thereafter. The Cherokee would linger in the
surrounding forests, however, occasionally attacking settlers until 1838 when
they were removed to the Oklahoma Territory (see Trail of Tears).^[16]

European Settlement

John Oliver (1793-1863), a veteran of the War of 1812, and his wife Lucretia Frazier (1795-1888) were the first permanent European settlers in Cades Cove. The Olivers, originally from Carter County, arrived in 1818, accompanied by Joshua Jobe, who had initially persuaded them to settle in the cove. While Jobe returned to Carter County,
the Olivers stayed, struggling through the winter and subsisting on dried pumpkin given to them by friendly Cherokees. Jobe returned in the Spring of 1819 with a herd of cattle in tow, and gave the Olivers two milk cows to ease their complaints.^[17]
In 1821, a veteran of the American Revolution named William "Fighting Billy" Tipton (1761-1849) bought up large tracts of Cades Cove which he in turn sold to his sons and relatives. In the 1820s, Peter Cable, a Pennsylvania Dutch farmer, arrived in the cove and designed an elaborate system of dykes and sluices that helped drain the swampy lands in the
western part of the cove.^[18] In 1827, Daniel Foute opened the Cades Cove Bloomery Forge to fashion metal tools.^[19] Robert Shields arrived in the cove in 1835, and would erect a tub mill on Forge Creek. His son, Frederick, built the cove's first grist mill. Other early settlers would build houses on the surrounding mountains, among them Russell Gregory (1795-1864), for whom Gregory Bald is named, and James Spence, for whom Spence Field is named.^[20]
Between 1820 and 1850, the population of Cades Cove grew to 671, with the size of cove farms averaging between 150 and 300 acres (0.6 and 1.2 km²).^[21] The early cove residents, although relatively self-sufficient, were dependent upon nearby Tuckaleechee Cove for dry goods and other necessities.^[22]
The isolation often attributed to Cades Cove is probably exaggerated. A post office was established in the cove in 1833, and Sevierville post master Philip Seaton set up a weekly mail route to the cove in 1839. Cades Cove had phone service as early as the 1890s, when Dan Lawson and several neighbors built a phone line all the way to Maryville. By the 1850s, various roads
connected Cades Cove with Tuckaleechee and Montvale Springs, some of which are still maintained as seasonal passes or hiking trails.^[23]

Religion In Cades Cove

Religion was an important part of life in Cades Cove from its earliest days, due in large part to the efforts of John and Lucretia Oliver.^[24] The Olivers managed to organize a branch of the Miller's Cove Baptist Church for Cades Cove in 1825. After briefly realigning themselves with the Wear's Cove Baptist Church, the Cades Cove Baptist Church was pronounced an independent entity in 1829.^[25]
In the 1830s, a division in Baptist churches known as the Anti-mission Split occurred throughout East Tennessee.^[26] The split was due to a debate over whether or not missions and other "innovations of the day"
were authorized by scripture. This debate made its way to Cades Cove Baptist Church in 1839, becoming so emotionally-charged as to require the intervention of the Tennessee Association of United Baptist. In the end, 13 members of the congregation
departed to form the Cades Cove Missionary Baptist Church later that year, and the remaining congregation changed their name to the Primitive Baptist Church in 1841.^[27] The Primitive Baptists, as their name implies, believed in a strict, literal interpretation of Biblical scripture. William Howell Oliver (1857-1940), pastor of the Primitive Baptist Church from 1882 to
1940, explained:

We believe that Jesus Christ himself instituted the Church, that it was perfect at the start, suitably adopted in its organization to every age of the world, to every locality of earth, to every state and condition of the world, to every state and condition of mankind, without any changes or alterations to suit the times, customs, situations, or localities.^[28]

The Primitive Baptists would remain the dominant religious and political force in the cove, their meetings interrupted only by the Civil War. The Missionaries, with a much smaller congregation, would continue to meet on and off throughout the 19th century.
The Cades Cove Methodist Church was organized in the 1820s, probably due to the efforts of circuit riders such as George Eakin. The Methodist congregation, like that of the Missionaries, was relatively small.^[29]

The Civil War

In the decades before the Civil War, Blount County, Tennessee was a hotbed of abolitionist activity. The Manumission Society of Tennessee was active in the county as early as 1815, and the Quakers— who were relatively-numerous in Blount at the time— were so vehemently opposed to slavery that they fought alongside the Union army, in spite of their pacifist agenda.^[30] The founder of Maryville College, Rev. Isaac Anderson, was a staunch abolitionist who often gave sermons in Cades Cove. Blount doctor Calvin Post (1803-1873) was believed to have set up an Underground Railroad stop within the cove in the years preceding the war.^[30] With such sentiment and influence, it's no surprise
that Cades Cove remained staunchly pro-Union, regardless of the destruction it suffered throughout the war (there were some exceptions, however, such as the cove's affluent entrepreneur and Confederate sympathizer, Daniel Foute).
In 1863, Confederate guerrillas began making systematic raids into Cades Cove,
stealing livestock and killing any Union supporter they could find. Elijah
Oliver (1829-1905), a son of John Oliver and a Union sympathizer, was forced to
hide out on Rich Mountain for much of the war. Calvin Post had also gone into
hiding, and with the death of John Oliver in 1863, the cove had lost most of
its original leaders.^[32]
Although Federal forces occupied Knoxville in 1863, Confederate raids into
Cades Cove continued. A pivotal figure at this time was Russell Gregory, who
had originally vowed to remain neutral after his son's defection to the
Confederate cause. Gregory organized a small militia, comprised mostly of the
cove's elderly men, and in 1864 ambushed a band of Confederate marauders near
the junction of Forge Creek and Abrams Creek. The Confederates were routed and
chased back across the Smokies to North Carolina. Although this largely put an
end to the raids, a band of Confederates managed to sneak into the cove and
kill Gregory just two weeks later.^[33]
Cades Cove would suffer from the effects of the Civil War for most of the rest
of the 1800s. Only around 1900 did its population return to pre-war levels.
The average farm was much less productive, however, and the cove residents were suspicious of any form of change. It wasn't until the Progressive Era that the cove recovered, economically.^[34]

Moonshining and Prohibition

The Chestnut Flats area of Cades Cove, located at the base of Gregory Bald, was
well-known for producing high-quality corn liquor.^[35] Among
the more prominent distillers was Josiah "Joe Banty" Gregory (1870-1933), the
son of Matilda "Aunt Tildy" Shields by her first marriage.^[36] The Primitive Baptists— especially William Oliver and his
son, John W. Oliver (1878-1966)— were fervently opposed to the distilling
or consumption of alcohol, and the practice was largely confined to Chestnut
Flats. John W. Oliver, who was a mail carrier in the cove, often found stills
on his mail route and reported them to authorities. Oliver would later deride
the image of the moonshiner as an integral part of the mountaineer stereotype:

All these men are public outlaws, and were never recognized as true, loyal
mountaineers or as true American citizens, by the rank and file of the mountain
people.^[37]

In 1921, Josiah Gregory's still was raided by the Blount County sheriff.
Although it was later revealed that the sheriff was tipped off by a surveyor in
the area, the Gregorys blamed the Olivers. On the night following the raid,
the barns of both William and John W. Oliver were burned, destroying a large
portion of the family's livestock and tools.^[38] Shortly
thereafter, Gregory's son was assaulted by Asa and John Sparks after a
prank-gone-wrong. In response, Gregory and his brother, Dana, hunted down and
shot the Sparks brothers on Christmas night in 1921. Both of the Gregorys were
convicted of barn burning and later convicted of felonious assault. After
serving only six months, however, they were pardoned and personally escorted
home by Governor Austin Peay.^[39]

The National Park

Of all the Smoky Mountain communities, Cades Cove put up the most resistance to
the formation of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The cove residents
were initially assured their land would not be incorporated into the park, and
welcomed its formation.^[40] By 1927, the winds had changed, however, and when the Tennessee General Assembly passed a bill approving money to buy land for the national park, it gave the Park Commission the power to seize properties within the proposed park boundaries by eminent domain. Long-time residents of Cades Cove were outraged. The head of the Park Commission, Colonel David Chapman, received several threats, including an anonymous phone call warning him that if he ever returned to Cades Cove, he would "spend the next night in hell."^[41] Shortly thereafter, Chapman found a sign near the cove's entrance that read {sic}:

COL. CHAPMAN: YOU AND HOAST ARE NOTFY, LET THE COVE PEOPL ALONE. GET OUT. GET
GONE. 40 M. LIMIT.^[42]

The "40 mile" (64 km) limit referred to the distance between Cades Cove and Chapman's hometown of Knoxville. Despite these threats, Chapman initiated a condemnation suit against John W. Oliver in July of 1929. The court, however, ruled in favor of Oliver,
reasoning that the federal government had never said Cades Cove was essential to the national park. Shortly after the verdict, the Secretary of the Interior officially announced that the cove was necessary, and another condemnation suit was filed. This time, Oliver lost, with the case going all the way to the Tennessee Supreme Court. Oliver would return to court several times over the
value of his 375 acre (1.5 km²) tract, which he said was worth $30,000, although the court awarded him just $17,000 plus interest. After attaining a series of one-year leases, Oliver finally abandoned his property on Christmas Day in 1937.^[43] The Primitive Baptist Church congregation continued to meet in Cades Cove until the 1960s in defiance of the park service, who wanted to develop the land where their church was located.^[44]
For about one-hundred years before the creation of the national park, much farming and logging was done in the valley, as the main source of economic development for the peoples living in the cove, both leading to massive deforestation. At first, in spite of the persistent urgings of the Great Smoky Mountain Conservation Association to maintain Cades Cove as a meadow, the National Park Service planned to let the cove return to its natural forested state.^[45] Nonetheless, on the advice of contemporary cultural experts such as Hans Huth, it demolished the more modern structures, leaving only the primitive cabins and barns which were considered most representative of pioneer life in early Appalachia. As a result, a visitor to the cove may leave with an impression of a technologically backward community. However, in its day, the cove was as well educated and progressive as any rural community in Blount County, Tennessee.^[46]

Historical Structures in Cades Cove

The National Park Service currently maintains several buildings in Cades Cove that are representative of pioneer life in 19th century Appalachia. It's important to note that by the time the cove was incorporated, most residents lived in relatively-modern frame houses, rather than log cabins.
The following are listed in the order they are approached along the Cades Cove Loop Road:
1. 'The John Oliver Cabin', constructed c. 1822-1823 by the cove's first permanent European settlers. Dunn reports that the Olivers spent the winter of 1818-1819 in an abandoned Cherokee hut, and built a crude structure the following year. The Oliver Cabin was built as a replacement for this first crude structure, which was located a few meters behind the cabin.
2. 'The Primitive Baptist Church', constructed in 1887. The church was organized as the Cades Cove Baptist Church in 1827, and renamed "Primitive Baptist" after the Anti-missions Split in 1841. The Olivers and Russell Gregory are buried in its cemetery.
3. 'The Cades Cove Methodist Church', constructed in 1902. Methodists were active in the cove as early as the 1820s, and built their first meeting house in 1840.

4. 'The Cades Cove Missionary Baptist Church', constructed in 1894. The church was formed from a small faction of Cades Cove Baptists in 1839 who had broken off from the main church due to the debate over missions, which the Cades Cove Baptists didn't consider authorized by scripture.
5. 'The Elijah Oliver Place', constructed in 1866. Elijah Oliver (1829-1905) was the son of John and Lucretia Oliver. His original farm was destroyed during the U.S. Civil War by Confederate marauders. The homestead includes a dog-trot cabin, a chicken coop, a corn crib, and a crude stable.
6. 'The John Cable Grist Mill', constructed in 1868. John P. Cable (1819-1891), a nephew of Peter Cable, had to construct a series of elaborate diversions along Mill Creek and Forge Creek to get enough water power for the mill's characteristic overshot wheel.^[47]
7. 'The Becky Cable House', constructed in 1879. This building, adjacent to the Cable Mill, was initially used by Leason Gregg as a general store. In 1887, he sold it to John Cable's spinster daughter, Rebecca Cable (1844-1940). A Cable family tradition says that Rebecca never forgave her father and refused to marry after her father broke off one of her childhood romances. Various buildings have been moved from elsewhere in the cove and placed near the Cable mill, including a barn, a carriage house, a chicken coop, a molasses still, a sorghum press, and a replica of a blacksmith shop.

8. 'The Henry Whitehead Cabin', constructed 1895-1896. This cabin, located on Forge Creek Road near Chestnut Flats, was built by Matilda "Aunt Tildy" Shields and her second husband, Henry Whitehead (1851-1914). Shields' sons from her first marriage were prominent figures in the cove's moonshine trade.
9. 'The Dan Lawson Place', built by Peter Cable in the 1840s and acquired by Dan Lawson (1827-1905) after he married Cable's daughter, Mary Jane. Lawson was the cove's wealthiest resident. The homestead includes a cabin (still called the Peter Cable cabin), a smokehouse, a chicken coop, and a hay barn.
10. 'The Tipton Place', built in the 1880s by the descendants of Revolutionary War veteran William "Fighting Billy" Tipton. The paneling on the house was a later addition. Along with the cabin, the homestead includes a carriage house, a smokehouse, a woodshed, and the oft-photographed double-cantilever barn.
11. 'The Carter Shields Cabin', a rustic log cabin built in the 1830s.

Touring

Cades Cove, though geographically isolated, is today a very popular tourist destination in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. A one-way, eleven mile (18 km) paved loop around Cades Cove draws thousands of visitors daily, and can take over four hours to traverse during tourist season. The cove draws attention for numerous black bear sightings, although many enthusiasts make the trip for the abundant hiking access and well-preserved 19th century homesteads. On most days, multiple deer can be seen in the meadows and woods throughout the cove. Popular hiking trails within the cove include the trail to Abrams Falls and the trail to Gregory Bald, the latter named after Russell Gregory, a prominent resident of the cove. In addition to hiking and general sightseeing, horseback and bicycle riding are popular activities.

Notes

1. Harry Moore, ''A Roadside Guide to the Geology of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park'' (Knoxville: University of Tennessee Press, 1988), 29.
2. Moore, 29.
3. Moore, 17.
4. Moore, 12-13.
5. Moore, 23-27.
6. Moore, 29.
7. Moore, 35.
8. Michael Strutin, ''History Hikes of the Smokies'' (Gatlinburg: Great Smoky Mountains Associaton, 2003), 322-323.
9. Durwood Dunn, ''Cades Cove: The Life and Death of An Appalachian Community'' (Knoxville: University of Tennessee Press, 1988), 6.
10. Vicki Rozema, ''Footsteps of the Cherokees: A Guide to the Eastern Homelands of the Cherokee Nation'' (Winston-Salem: John F. Blair, 1995.
11. James Mooney, ''Myths of the Cherokee and Sacred Formulas of the Cherokee'' (Nashville: Charles Elder, 1972), 538.
12. Rozema, 183.
13. Rozema,
183.
14. Rozema, 183.
15. Dunn, 260.
16. Dunn,
13.
17. Dunn, 1-9.
18. Dunn, 16-17.
19. Dunn, 20.
20. Dunn, 43-44.
21. Dunn, 68.
22. Dunn, 67.
23. Dunn, 82-86.
24. Dunn, 100.
25. Dunn, 102-103.
26. Dunn, 112.
27. Dunn, 112-113.
28. Dunn, 104.
29. Dunn,
119-120.
30. Dunn, 125.
31. Dunn, 125.
32. Dunn, 134.
33. Dunn, 135-136.
34. Dunn, 143-144.
35. Michael Frome, ''Strangers In High Places: The Story of the Great Smoky Mountains'' (Knoxville: University of Tennessee Press, 1994), 334.
36. Frome,
334.
37. Daniel Pierce, ''The Great Smokies: From Natural Habitat to National Park'' (Knoxville: University of Tennessee Press, 2000), 21.
38. Dunn, 235-236.
39. Dunn, 238-239.
40. Dunn, 242-246.
41. Carlos Campbell, ''Birth of a National Park In the Great Smoky Mountains'' (Knoxville: University of Tennessee Press, 1969), 97-101.
42. Campbell, 98.
43. Pierce, 162.
44. Pierce, 166.
45. Campbell, 147.
46. Dunn, xiii-xiv.
47. Dunn, 81-82.