'Ceuta' is an
autonomous city of
Spain located on the
Mediterranean, on the southern coast of the
Strait of Gibraltar, on the
North African coast. Ceuta, together with the other African autonomous city of
Melilla and a number of Mediterranean islands, is claimed by
Morocco. The area of Ceuta is approximately
28 km².
Ceuta is dominated by a hill called
Monte Hacho, on which there is a fort occupied by the
Spanish army.
Monte Hacho is one of the possible locations for the southern
Pillars of Hercules of Greek Legend, the other possibility being
Jebel Musa.
History
Ceuta's strategic location has made it the crucial waypoint of many cultures' trade and military ventures — beginning with the
Carthaginians in the
5th century BC, who called the city ''Abyla''. It was not until the
Romans took control in about A.D.
42 that the port city (then named ''Septem'') assumed an almost exclusive military purpose. Approximately 400 years later, the
Vandals ousted the Romans for control, and later it fell to the
Visigoths of
Hispania and the
Byzantines .
In 710, as
Muslim armies approached the city, its Visigothic governor
Julian (also described as "king of the
Ghomara") changed sides and urged them to invade the
Iberian Peninsula (for personal reasons, according to the Arab chroniclers; the Visigothic King
Roderick is said to have mistreated his daughter). Under the leadership of
Berber general
Tariq ibn Ziyad, Ceuta was used as a prime
staging ground for an assault on
Visigothic Hispania soon after.
After Julian's death the Arabs took direct control of the city; this was resented by the surrounding indigenous Berber tribes, who destroyed it in a
Kharijite rebellion led by
Maysara al-Haqir in 740. It lay in waste until refounded in the
9th century by
Majakas, chief of the
Majkasa Berber tribe, who started the short-lived dynasty of the
Banu Isam. Under his great-grandson they paid allegiance to the
Idrisids (briefly); the dynasty finally ended when he abdicated in favour of the
Umayyad Caliph of Cordoba Abd ar-Rahman III an-Nasir in 931. Chaos ensued with the fall of the Umayyad caliphate in 1031, but eventually it was taken over by the
Almoravids in 1084, and again used as a base from which to invade Iberia. They were conquered by the
Almohads in 1147, who ruled it, apart from Ibn Hud's rebellion of 1232, until the
Hafsids took it in 1242. The Hafsids' influence in the west rapidly waned, and the city expelled them in 1249; after this, it went through a period of political instability.
In 1309, Ceuta was conquered by the
Kingdom of Fez, with Aragonese help.
In 1415, Ceuta was occupied by the
Portuguese during the reign of
John I of Portugal. The primary aims of the conquest were to expel Muslim influence from the area, further promote
Christianity, and to tap into the trans-Saharan gold, slave and ivory trade routes, of which Ceuta was the northern terminus.
After Portugal
lost its independence to
Spain in 1580, the majority of the population of Ceuta became of Spanish origin, so much so that, when Portugal regained its independence in 1640 and war broke out between the two countries, Ceuta was the only colony of the
Portuguese Empire that sided with Spain.

Moat of the Royal Wall of Ceuta
The allegiance of Ceuta to Spain was recognized by the
Treaty of Lisbon by which, on
January 1 1668, King
Afonso VI of Portugal formally ceded Ceuta to
Carlos II of Spain. However, the flag and
coat of arms of Ceuta remained unchanged and to this day still feature the colonial configuration of the
Portuguese shield. The flag's background is also the same as the Portuguese capital
Lisbon's.
When Spain recognized the independence of
Spanish Morocco in
1956, Ceuta and the other
plazas de soberanía remained under Spanish rule as they were considered integral parts of the Spanish state.
Culturally, modern Ceuta is considered part of the Spanish region of
Andalusia. Indeed, it was until recently attached to the province of
Cádiz - the Spanish coast being only 20 km away. It is a very cosmopolitan city, with a large ethnic Berber Muslim minority as well as a
Jewish minority.

Council of Ceuta
Administration
Ceuta is known officially in
Spanish as 'Ciudad Autónoma de Ceuta' (lit. Autonomous City of Ceuta), with a rank between a standard Spanish city and an
autonomous community. Before the
Statute of Autonomy, Ceuta was part of the
Cádiz province.
Ceuta is part of the territory of the
European Union. The city was a
free port before Spain joined the European Union in 1986. Now it has a low-tax system within the European Monetary System. As of 2006, its population was 75,861.
Ceuta does not have an airport. There is, however, a regular helicopter service linking it to
Málaga Airport. Access to and from Ceuta is by ferry or land.
Political status
The government of
Morocco has called for the integration of Ceuta and
Melilla, along with uninhabited islands such as
Isla Perejil, into its national territory, drawing comparisons with Spain's territorial claim to
Gibraltar. The Spanish government and both Ceuta's and Melilla's autonomous governments and inhabitants reject these comparisons on the ground that both Ceuta and Melilla are integral parts of the Spanish state whereas Gibraltar, a
British Overseas Territory, is not nor never has been part of the
United Kingdom. Ceuta's Islamic past is also shorter than much of the rest of Southern Spain. Morocco, however, dismisses these arguments as irrelevant.
ISO 3166-1 reserves ''EA'' as the country code for Ceuta and
Melilla. The
amateur radio call sign used for both cities is EA9, and they count as one separate "entity."

Cathedral
Ecclesiastical history
By the
Concordat of
1851 the diocese of Ceuta, a suffragan of the Andalusian archbishopric of
Seville was suppressed and incorporated in the
diocese of Cádiz, whose bishop usually was the
Apostolic Administrator of Ceuta.
By the early 20th century there were 22 parishes, 26 priests, and 11,700 inhabitants in Ceuta.
See also
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Ceuta border fence
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Isla Perejil
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Spanish Morocco
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Rock of Gibraltar
External links
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Information on the history of Ceuta
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Official Ceuta government website
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Time Magazine: Al-Qaeda Eyes Spain's 'Lost City'
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Spain's North African enclaves
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Documentary about illegal immigrants trying to reach Ceuta from Morocco
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Postcard of Ceuta
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