The 'Chiltern Hills' are a
chalk escarpment in south east
England. They are known locally as "the Chilterns". A large portion of the hills is designated officially as an
Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
Location
The Chilterns stretches in a seventy-five mile south-west to north-east diagonal from
Goring-On-Thames in
Oxfordshire through
Buckinghamshire, via
Dunstable Downs in Bedfordshire to the furthest north east ridge which runs from Deacon Hill,
Pegsden.
The boundary of the hills is clearly defined on the north west side by the scarp slope. The dip slope, by its nature, merges with the landscape to the south east. Similarly, the Thames provides a clear terminal whereas, north east of Luton, the hills decline slowly in prominence.
Geology
The scarp overlooks the
Vale of Aylesbury, and approximately coincides with the southernmost extent of the ice sheet during the last
ice age. The Chilterns are part of the
Southern England Chalk Formation which also includes
Salisbury Plain,
Cranborne Chase, the
Isle of Wight and the
South Downs, in the south. In the north, the chalk formations continue north-westwards across north Hertfordshire, Norfolk and the
Lincolnshire Wolds, finally ending as the
Yorkshire Wolds in a prominent escarpment, south of the
Vale of Pickering.
Physical characteristics
Their highest point — 267
m (876
ft) — is at
Haddington Hill in
Wendover Woods,
Buckinghamshire, near
Wendover; a stone marks the summit. A prominent hill is the nearby
Ivinghoe Beacon, standing 249m (817ft) above sea level, the starting point of the
Icknield Way and
The Ridgeway long distance path, which follows the line of the Chilterns for many miles to the west, where they merge with the
Wiltshire downs and southern
Cotswolds. To the east of Ivinghoe Beacon is
Dunstable Downs, a steep section of the Chiltern scarp that is the site of the famous
London Gliding Club and
Whipsnade Zoo. Near Wendover is
Coombe Hill which is 260 m (853 ft) above sea level.
The more gently sloping country - the
dip slope - to the south-east of the Chiltern scarp is also generally referred to as The Chilterns, containing much
beech woodland and many pretty villages.
Rivers that drain from the Chiltern Hills include the
River Mimram,
River Lee,
River Ver,
River Bulbourne,
River Misbourne,
River Chess,
River Wye and
River Gade and are classified as
chalk streams.
History
In pre-Roman times, the Chiltern ridge provided a relatively safe and easily negotiable route, thus the
Icknield Way (one of England's ancient trackways) follows the line of the hills.
One of the principal
Roman settlements in
Britannia was sited at
Verulamium (now
St Albans and there are significant Roman and
Romano-British remains in the area.
The
Tudors had a hunting lodge in the
Hemel Hempstead area.
Settlement
Until the coming of the railways and, later, the motor-car, the Chilterns were largely rural with country towns situated on the main routes through the hills. The position of the hills, north-west of London, has affected the routing of major road, rail and canal routes. These were funnelled through convenient valleys (eg,
High Wycombe,
Hemel Hempstead) and encouraged settlement and, later,
commuter housing.
List of towns and villages in, or adjacent to, the Chilterns
★
Aldbury,
Amersham,
Apsley,
Ashridge
★
Barton-le-Clay,
Beaconsfield,
Berkhamsted,
Bledlow Ridge,
Bovingdon,
Bradenham,
Breachwood Green
★
Caddington,
Chalfont St Giles,
Chalfont St Peter,
Chesham,
Chinnor,
Cholesbury
★
Dunstable
★
Edlesborough,
Ellesborough
★
Fingest,
Flackwell Heath,
Frieth
★
Goring-On-Thames,
Great Missenden,
Great Hampden,
Great Offley
★
Halton,
Hambleden,
Hawridge,
Hemel Hempstead,
Henley-on-Thames,
Hexton,
High Wycombe,
Hughenden
★
Jordans
★
Lane End,
Ley Hill,
Little Missenden,
Lilley,
Luton
★
Markyate,
Medmenham
★
Naphill,
Nettlebed
★
Pishill,
Princes Risborough,
Prestwood,
Reading,
Redbourn
★
Skirmett,
Sharpenhoe,
Speen,
Stokenchurch,
Stonor,
Studham
★
Tring,
Turville
★
Watlington,
Wendover,
West Wycombe,
Whitwell,
Whipsnade
Use
The hills have been exploited for their natural resources. The chalk has been quarried for the manufacture of
cement.
Beechwoods supplied furniture makers with quality hardwood, the area was once renowned for its
chair making industry, centred on the towns of
Chesham and
High Wycombe. The clean water from the aquifer is still used for public supply and the rivers and streams have fed
watercress beds. The chalk of the hills is an important
aquifer, exploited to provide water supplies in the area; it has been suggested that over-exploitation has led to the disappearance of some streams.
In a region short of building stone, local clay deposits and timber provided the raw materials for brick manufacture. Where available,
flint was also used for construction; it is still used in modern buildings, although restricted to decoration to give a vernacular appearance.
Mediaeval parishes reflected the diversity of land from clay farmland, through wooded slopes to downland. Their boundaries were often drawn to include a section of each type of land, resulting in an irregular county boundary between, say, Bedfordshire and Hertfordshire. These have tended to be smoothed out by successive reorganisations.
In modern times, as people have come to appreciate open country, the area has become a visitor destination and the
National Trust has acquired land to preserve its character, for example at
Ashridge, near
Tring. In places, with the reduction of sheep grazing, action has been taken to maintain open downland by suppressing the natural growth of scrub and birch woodland. In the 1920s and 1930s, the
Youth Hostels Association established several hostels for people visiting the hills.
Administration
The Chilterns are not a
National Park and do not, therefore, possess their own
planning authority. The
Chilterns Conservation Board has an advisory role on planning and development matters and seeks to influence the actions of local government by commenting upon
planning applications.
[1]
The local authorities (four County Councils, one Unitary Authority and ten District and Borough Councils) are expected to respect the areas status as a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.
Chiltern Hundreds
The Chilterns includes the
Chiltern Hundreds. By established custom,
Members of the British Parliament may apply for the Stewardship of the Chiltern Hundreds as a device to resign their seats, despite an ordinance to the contrary (see
Resignation from the House of Commons).
References
1. Chilterns Conservation Board
See also
★
Zouches Farm
External links
★
Chilterns Conservation Board
★
Kimpton Flood (When Chalk Streams turn bad!)