'Chypre' is a name used to describe a family of
perfumes, usually based on a
top note of citrus and woody
base notes, usually from
oak moss.
History
The word ''Chypre'' is French for
Cyprus. It was first used in perfumery by
François Coty, who created an influential perfume of that name in
1917. However, perfumes of a similar style had been created throughout the 19th century.
[1]
Before the 20th century,
perfumery was generally an art of recreating nature. According to perfume expert and biochemist
Luca Turin, the two fragrances that began to abstract that idea were Coty's Chypre and
Chanel No. 5 (created in
1921).
[2]
Style
Modern chypre perfumes have various citrus, herbaceous, floral and animalic notes, but all tend to have a "warm" and "woody" theme, and contain oak moss and usually
amber. Further common notes include
patchouli,
bergamot,
rose and
rock rose (Cistus ladaniferus).
[3]
Sub-families of chypre
★ Floral chypre, such as Knowing by
Estée Lauder
★ Fruity chypre, such as Rochas Femme by
Rochas or Citrus Bigarrade by
Creed
★ Green chypre, such as
Chanel No. 19 by
Chanel or YSL Y by
Yves Saint Laurent
★ Aromatic chypre, such as Sous le Vent by
Guerlain or Aromatics Elixir by
Clinique
★ Chypre leather, such as Cuir de Russie by
Chanel
References
1. See Musées de Grasse, the International Perfume Museum
2. Chandler Burr, ''The Emperor of Scent'' (Arrow Books, London, 2002), ISBN 0-09-946023-8
3. Definition of the chypre family from Musées de Grasse