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'Cosenza' is a city in Calabria, Italy, located at the confluence of two rivers: the Busento and the Crathis. It is the capital of the Province of Cosenza. The municipality (Comune di Cosenza) has a population of about 72,000; the urban area counts almost 200,000 inhabitants.
Thanks to its cultural past, the ancient town of Cosenza was known as the Athens of Calabria. The Cosentian Academy, for example, was one of the very first academies to be founded in Italy (1511). To this day, Cosenza remains an important cultural centre with its libraries, museums, traditional and experimental theatres, and the University of Calabria.
"To call the town picturesque is to use an inadequate word," wrote George Gissing in 1901. "At every step, from the opening of the main street at the hill foot up to the stern medieval castle crowning its height, one marvels and admires."

Contents

Geography

History

Origins

Legend of King Alaric

Norman, Hohenstaufen and Angevin period

Spanish domination

Modern Cosenza

Main sights

Church of San Domenico

The Cathedral

''Monastero delle Vergini''

''Giostra Vecchia''

Hohenstaufen Castle

''Spirito Santo''

Museums and cultural institutions

Events and festivals

Famous people

Geography

Cosenza stands 238 m above sea level in an intermontane valley between the Sila and the coastal range of mountains. The old town, overshadowed by its castle, descends to the River Crathis, whereas the growing modern city lies to the north, beyond the Busento, on level ground. The old town centre is crossed by the winding Corso Telesio.

History

Origins

Cosenza, the ancient capital of the Italic tribe of the Bruttii, was a bulwark of the Italic people against the Hellenic influences of the Ionians. Over the centuries it maintained a distinctive character which marked it out among the inner cities of the region. Under Emperor Augustus it became an important stopover on the Roman via Popilia, which connected Calabria to Sicily. During the Roman empire, although a colony, the town benefited from municipal privileges. Cosenza belonged to the III Region of the Western Roman Empire until its fall, therefore its destiny was strictly connected with the history of Rome.

Legend of King Alaric

In 410 AD Alaric, king of the Visigoths, captured the great city of Rome and became the first foreign enemy to capture this city in over 800 years. When he left Rome, Alaric had amassed a great amount of treasure from his conquest of the city.
As legend has it, Alaric left Rome and headed south with his troops. When they reached the area of Cosenza, he died. No one is for certain as to how this happened. Some believe he contracted a disease that ultimately took his life. Others feel that his death came from an attack by enemy forces. In any case, his troops honoured their King by burying him in a tomb. This was no normal tomb. His burial place is said to have been at the confluence of the Busento and Crathis rivers. A horde of slaves were used to divert the water from the Busento allowing them to dig a tomb large enough for Alaric, his horse and all of the treasure amassed from his conquests. Once the tomb was completed, the river was returned to its original site and Alaric's tomb was covered with water. To ensure that no one would reveal this location to anyone, Alaric's troops had all of the slaves killed.

Norman, Hohenstaufen and Angevin period

Bitterly disputed between the Saracens and the Lombards, the town was destroyed, then rebuilt around 988; only to be ravaged again in the early 11th century. In the attempt to escape the devastation, the population left the town and sheltered on the surrounding hills where they built some small hamlets (still denominated Casali).
By the first half of the 11th century, Calabria became a feudal dukedom of the Normans, with Cosenza as capital. The town soon rebelled against the rule of Roger Guiscard and was only recaptured after a long siege. The city's archdiocese, dating to the 6th century AD, is one of the most ancient and important of the region, counting more than 130 parishes. Subsequently, under the Hohenstaufen rule, the town became the seat of the Court of Calabria (Curia Generale). The Emperor Frederick II had a particular interest in the town: he promoted construction and economic activities, organising an important annual fair.
The Cathedral was rebuilt and then consecrated in 1222; in 1242, Frederick's son Henry was buried there. Subsequently, Cosenza bitterly fought against the Angevin domination supported by the clergy. While the uprising spread through the valley of the river Crathis, the town was involved in the see-sawing fight between Angevins and Aragonese. In 1432 King Louis III of Anjou settled in the Castle with his wife Margaret of Savoy. When she died untimely, in 1434, she was buried in the Cathedral.

Spanish domination

In 1500, in spite of resistance, Cosenza was occupied by the Spanish army led by Captain Consalvo de Cordoba. It was during the XVI century that the town experienced a period of expansion and became seat of the Viceroy of Calabria. At the same time its cultural importance grew thanks to the foundation of the Cosentian Academy; among its most renowned members there were Bernardino Telesio, Aulo Gianni Parrasio, the Martirano brothers, Antonio Serra and others.
In 1707 the Austrians succeeded to the Spanish, and in 1799, after the proclamation of the republic - which was however short-lived - and a vain resistance, the town was finally occupied by Cardinal Ruffo’s Lazzari; Cardinal Ruffo was native of the province of Cosenza.

Modern Cosenza

From 1806 to 1815 Cosenza fought in an unequalled struggle against French domination. Cruel suppressions characterised that period and in 1813 the town, a cradle of the Carbonari secret societies, saw many rebels executed. The local riots of 1821 and 1837 heralded the Risorgimento. They were followed by the uprising of 15th March 1844, which reached its climax with the “noble folly” of the Bandiera Brothers, who were executed together with some of their followers in the Vallone di Rovito in Cosenza. In 1860, some months after the rapid and overwhelmingly heroic deeds of Garibaldi’s troops, the plebiscite proclaimed the annexation of Calabria to the new Kingdom of Italy.

Main sights

Church of San Domenico

Founded in 1448, the church combines Renaissance and Medieval elements. Its most interesting feature is the rose window defined by 16 tufa little columns. The wooden portal (1614) shows intaglio with floreal motifs, figures of saints and coats of arms.
Inside the church are works by the Cosentian A. Granata (late 18th century): ''Santa Rosa, Santa Caterina, San Ludovico, San Giacinto'' and ''San Domenico''. The high altar is made of polychrome marble (1767). In the transept, there is a ''Deposition'' and a ''San Vincenzo Ferreri'' (late 18th century, anonymous). The sacristy is noted for its ribbed vault, a double lancet window with a narrow arch and a wooden choir created in 1635.

The Cathedral

The origins of the Cathedral are unknown; it was probably built in the first half of the 11th century. After an earthquake destroyed the church on 9 June 1184, rebuilding was completed by 1222 when the Duomo was consecrated by Emperor Frederick II. In the first half of the 18th century it was covered by a baroque superstructure which obliterated the original structure and its works of art. In the first half of the nineteenth century the façade was transformed into gothic style, which completely changed its characteristics. At the end of the 19th century century, Archbishop Camillo Sorgente entrusted the work to Pisanti, who recovered the original old arches and the ancient structure of the Church. In the 1940s the work was finally completed.
In the transept is the tomb of Isabella of Aragon, wife of king Philip III of France. A long aisle links the Duomo to the ''Palazzo Arcivescovile'', which houses an ''Immacolata'' by Luca Giordano. One can also admire the rare and precious Stauroteca, a gift of the Emperor Frederick II to the Duomo upon consecration. The work belonged to the royal goldsmiths' workshops, better known as “Tiraz”, and was produced in an environment which blended Muslim, Byzantine and Western cultural experiences.

''Monastero delle Vergini''

In via Gaetano Argento stands the "Convent of the Virgins". The external part of the main entrance is made of decorated tufa, while the internal part is made of engraved wood. The convent contains a 16th-century painting of the ''Annunciation''. In front of it, is another 13th-century painting attributed to Giovanni da Taranto representing the ''Madonna del Pilerio'', while on the walls are four other anonymous 16th century paintings: the ''Visitation'', the ''Circumcision'', the ''Adoration of the Shepherds'' and the ''Adoration of the Magi''. In the apse is the altarpiece Transit of the Virgin (1570). The cymatium houses a painting portraying the ''Coronation of the Virgin'', while at the base of the two columns are paintings, attributed to Michele Curia (better known as "Master of Montecalvario") of two saints of uncertain identity. The wooden choir dates back to 1600.

''Giostra Vecchia''

After the fifteenth-century Palazzo Falvo begins the heart of Renaissance Cosenza, the so-called ''Giostra Vecchia''. Here are located the Church and Monastery of Saint Francis of Assisi, founded by Blessed Pietro Cathin of Sant’Andrea from Faenza, who was a disciple of St. Francis. The interior, where a Latin cross can be found, has a nave and two aisles. In the nave stands the impressive high wooden altar built in 1700. Above it is a painting by Daniele Russo representing the ''Perdono d’Assisi ''(1618). The same author painted a crucifix found in the cymatium. The left aisle is home to a wooden crucifix from the 17th century, the altar of the ''Madonna della Febbre'' and the statue of the ''Madonna with Child'', in marble, dating back to the 16th century. In the sacristy is a painted wooden ceiling, a wooden closet representing episodes from the Passion of Christ and pictures of saints and Franciscan monks. The stone arch is characterized by the painting of St. Francis of Paola, while on the walls are some frescoes dating back to the beginning of the 15th century.

Hohenstaufen Castle

The ''Castello Svevo'' (Hohenstaufen Castle) was built by the Saracens on the ruins of the ancient Rocca Brutia, around the year 1000. Frederick II restored it, adding the octagonal tower to the original structure, in 1239.
His son Henry lived in this castle, according to tradition, as a prisoner on his father’s command. The signs of the ancient Saracen structure have now disappeared. In the internal cloister, the modifications made by the Bourbons in order to convert it into a prison can also be seen. The entrance-hall is covered by pointed arches with engraved brackets. A wide corridor is dominated by some fleur-de-lis from the Angevin coat of arms which contains these flowers. They are engraved on the ribbed Swabian arches.

''Spirito Santo''

The church of ''Sant'Agostino'', also known as the ''Spirito Santo'', was built in 1507 by the Augustinians. The oginal portal has several inscriptions in Gothic characters. The interior has a series of paintings from the 18th century. Further on a narrow street leads to the so-called “Area of the Bandiera Brothers”, the ''Vallone di Rovito''. Here, the insurrectional patriots of 1844 were executed by a firing squad.

★ 'Arenella'
Further on, is the area called Arenella, which lies on the right bank of the river Crathis. On the left side of Corso del Plebiscito, you can see the Mercato dell’Arenella, an iron structure which used to host the old town market and which is now used for concerts and a flea market. On the right hand side, you can admire the church of San Gaetano. Turning right, just past the church, you will reach Palazzo Arnone, where some years ago were located the courthouse and the prison. It now houses the Galleria Nazionale - National Gallery.


★ 'San Francesco di Paola'
In the Arenella, are the Church and Monastery of Saint Francis of Paola (1510). The interior has a nave without an aisle and it houses the tomb of Ottavio Cesare Gaeta. On the right wall, are two 18th-century paintings: Sacra Famiglia and Madonna con San Francesco e Sant’Agostino. On an altar, you can see a wooden statue of Saint Francis of Paola; while on the left side of the nave, on another altar, is a wooden statue of San Michele Arcangelo. The ''Madonna with Child in Glory and Saints Paul & Luke'' (1551) was painted by Pietro Negroni. In the apse, a 16th century triptych made by Cristoforo Faffeo represents the Madonna and child in glory with saints Catherine and Sebastian. At the back of the altar is a wooden choir built in 1679 by M. Domenico Costanzo da Rogliano. On the wall of the sacristy you can see remains of frescoes dating back to 1550-1600. On the vault you can see some pastels representing scenes from the life of the Saint from Paola.

★ 'San Salvatore'
The small church of San Salvatore houses the parish which professes the Byzantine-Albanian faith. Inside the nave of the church you can admire a wooden ceiling, some frescoes of the Apostoli, of the Salvatore and of the Madonna, as well as a splendid iconostasis.

★ 'Open Air Museum'
In the modern part of Cosenza, in an area stretching from the pedestrianized Corso Mazzini to Piazza Bilotti, lies the open air museum Mab (''Museo all'aperto Bilotti''). The museum hosts a wide range of modern art sculptures that lie on the street for residents and tourists to enjoy alfresco. The sculptures were donated to the city by the Italian-American entrepreneur and art collector, Carlo Bilotti. They include ''Saint George and the Dragon'' by Salvador Dalì, ''Hector and Andromaca'' by Giorgio de Chirico, "the Bronzes" by Sacha Sosno, ''The Bather'' by Emilio Greco, ''The Cardinal'' by Giacomo Manzù and various marble sculptures by Pietro Consagra.

Museums and cultural institutions

★ Accademia Cosentina

★ Museo Civico Archeologico

★ Museo delle Rimembranze

★ Galleria Nazionale - Palazzo Arnone

★ Museo all'aperto "Bilotti" - Open air museum

★ Teatro "A. Rendano"

★ Teatro dell'Acquario - Teatro Stabile d'Innovazione della Calabria

★ Teatro Morelli

★ Casa delle Culture

★ Universitá della Calabria - UNICAL University of Calabria

★ Conservatorio di Musica "Stanislao Giacomantonio", located at the convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie

★ Biblioteca Civica

★ Biblioteca Nazionale

★ Biblioteca dei Ragazzi

★ Biblioteca dell'Archivio di stato di Cosenza

★ Biblioteca ecclesiastica SS. Crocifisso

★ Biblioteca provinciale di Cosenza

★ Biblioteca arcivescovile del Seminario cosentino

★ Biblioteca del Conservatorio di Musica "Stanislao Giacomoantonio"

★ Biblioteca del Centro jazz Calabria - Archivio discografico Centro di documentazione sonora

★ Biblioteca della Fondazione Antonio Guarasci

★ Biblioteca della Soprintendenza per il Patrimonio Storico Artistico ed Etnoantropologico - PSAE

★ Biblioteca del Liceo classico "Bernardino Telesio"

Events and festivals

★ Fiera di S.Giuseppe - March

★ S.Giuseppe Rock Festival - March

★ Festival delle Invasioni - July

★ Festa del Vino (Wine Festival in Donnici area) - October

Famous people

★ Aulo Giano Parrasio (humanist, 1470-1521)

★ Bernardino Telesio (philosopher, 1509-1588)

★ Antonio Serra (economist, late 16th century)

★ Francesco Saverio Salfi (philosopher, 1759-1832)

★ Giuseppe Spiriti (economist and scientist, 1757-1799)

★ Alfonso Rendano (pianist and composer, 1853 - 1931)

★ Alessandro Longo (composer and musicologist, 1864-1945)