'Epirus' (
Greek Ήπειρος ''Ēpeiros'' (
Doric Greek: Ἅπειρος ''Apeiros''),
Albanian: ''Epir'' or ''Epiri'') is a geographical and historical region of the
Balkan peninsula in south-eastern
Europe. It is divided between
Greece, which possesses around 80% of the region, and southern
Albania whose area is equivalent to the northern part of classical Epirus (see
Northern Epirus). The Greek portion is called the
periphery of Epirus in Greece.

Map of ancient Epirus
Etymology of the name
The Greek name Epirus signifies "mainland" or "continent", to distinguish it from the Ionian islands off the Epirote coast. It was originally applied to the whole coast south to the
Gulf of Patras. The name is thought to go back to
Proto-Greek /apeiros, from an
Indo-European root '' meaning 'coast'.
[1]
Boundaries and definitions
The historical region of Epirus is generally regarded as extending from the Bay of
Vlorë in Albania to the
Gulf of Arta or Ambracian Gulf in Greece. Its eastern boundary is defined by the
Pindus Mountains that form the spine of mainland Greece and separate Epirus from
Macedonia and
Thessaly. To the west, Epirus faces the
Adriatic Sea and
Ionian Sea. The island of
Corfu is situated off the coast but is not generally regarded as part of the province (politically it is part of the
Ionian Islands province of Greece).
Geography and ecology

NASA satellite image of Epirus
Epirus is a rugged and mountainous region. It is largely made up of mountainous
limestone ridges, part of the
Dinaric Alps, that in places reach 2,650 m. In the east, the
Pindus Mountains that form the spine of mainland Greece separate Epirus from
Macedonia and
Thessaly. Most of Epirus lies on the windward side of the Pindus. The winds from the Ionian Sea offer the region more rainfall than any other part of Greece.
The climate of Epirus is mainly
alpine. The vegetation is made up mainly of coniferous species. The animal life is especially rich in this area and features, among other species,
bears,
wolves,
foxes,
deer and
lynxes.
History
Early settlement
Epirus has been occupied since
Neolithic times, when hunters and shepherds inhabited the region and constructed large
tumuli to bury their leaders. The tumuli had many similar characteristics to those later used by the
Myceneans, suggesting a possible ancestral link between Epirus and the Mycenean civilisation. Certainly, Mycenean remains have been found at two ancient religious sites in the region, the
Necromanteion (Oracle of the Dead) on the
Acheron river, and the Oracle of
Zeus at
Dodona.
The
Dorians invaded Greece via Epirus and Macedonia at the end of the
2nd millennium BC (circa
1100 BC-
1000 BC), though the reasons for their migration are obscure. The region's original inhabitants were driven southward into the Greek mainland by the invasion and by the early
1st millennium BC three principal clusters of Greek-speaking tribes had emerged in Epirus. These were the
Chaones of northwestern Epirus, the
Molossians in the centre and the
Thesprotians in the middle.
Epirus and ancient Greece

Remains of the sanctuary of Zeus Dodonaios in Dodona
Unlike most other Greeks of the time, who lived in or around
city-states such as
Athens or
Sparta, the
Epirotes lived in small villages. Their region lay on the edge of the Greek world and was far from peaceful; for many centuries, it remained a frontier area contested with the
Illyrian peoples of the Adriatic coast and interior. However, Epirus had a far greater religious significance than might have been expected given its geographical remoteness, due to the presence of the shrine and oracle at Dodona - regarded as second only to the more famous oracle at
Delphi.
The Epirotes seem to have initially been regarded with some disdain by the Greeks of the south. The
5th century BC historian
Thucydides describes them as "barbarians" and the only Epirotes regarded as truly Greek were the
Aeacidae, who claimed to be descended from
Neoptolemus, son of
Achilles. In opposite, other ancient Greek and Roman writers such as
Apollodorus[2],
Strabo[3],
Dionysius of Halicarnassus[4],
Frontinus[5],
Pausanias[6],
Ptolemy[7],
Cassius Dio[8] and
Eutropius[9], describe them as Greeks.
Plutarch mentions an interesting cultural element of the Epirotes regarding Achilles. In his biography of king
Pyrrhus, he claims that Achilles "''had a divine status in Epirus and in the local dialect he was called Aspetos''"
[10]. The Aeacidae established the
Molossian dynasty, who built a state in Epirus from about
370 BC onwards, expanding their power at the expense of rival tribes. The Molossians allied themselves with the increasingly powerful kingdom of
Macedon and in
359 BC the Molossian princess
Olympias, niece of
Arybbas of Epirus, married King
Philip II of Macedon. She was to become the mother of
Alexander the Great.
On the death of Arybbas,
Alexander of Epirus succeeded to the throne and the title King of Epirus.
Aeacides of Epirus, who succeeded Alexander, espoused the cause of Olympias against
Cassander, but was dethroned in
313 BC. His son
Pyrrhus came to throne in
295 BC, and for six years fought against the
Romans in southern
Italy and
Sicily. His campaigns gave Epirus a new, but brief, importance and a lasting contribution to the language with the concept of a "
Pyrrhic victory".
In the
3rd century BC Epirus remained a substantial power, unified under the auspices of the Epirote League as a federal state with its own parliament (or ''synedrion''). However, it was faced with the growing threat of the expansionist
Roman Republic, which fought a series of wars with Macedonia. The League remained neutral in the first two Macedonian Wars but split in the
Third Macedonian War (
171 BC-
168 BC), with the Molossians siding with the Macedonians and the Chaones and Thesproti siding with Rome. The outcome was disastrous for Epirus; Molossia fell to Rome in
167 BC, 150,000 of its inhabitants were enslaved and the region was so thoroughly plundered that it took 500 years for central Epirus to recover fully.
Roman and Byzantine rule
The Roman invasion permanently ended the political independence of the Epirotes. In
146 BC Epirus became part of the
province of Roman Macedonia, receiving the name
Epirus vetus, to distinguish it from
Epirus nova to the east. Its coastal regions grew wealthy from the Roman coastal trade routes, and the construction of the
Via Egnatia provided a further boost to prosperity.
Epirus became the westernmost province of the Eastern Roman Empire (subsequently the Greek-speaking
Byzantine Empire), ruled from
Constantinople when the empire was divided in two in
395 AD. When Constantinople fell to the
Fourth Crusade in
1204,
Michael Angelos Komnenos Ducas seized
Aetolia and Epirus to establish an independent
Despotate of Epirus. The rulers of the Despotate controlled a substantial area corresponding to a large swathe of northwestern Greece, much of modern Albania and parts of the modern
Republic of Macedonia.
In 1318 Epirus was overrun by
Serbs in one of a series of uprisings. Following an Albanian uprising in 1359 , in which the Despot
Nicephorus II was killed, the Byzantines re-established a measure of control of the despotate by making it a vassal state. However, in 1430 the
Ottoman Empire under Sultan
Murad II annexed Epirus.
Epirus under the Ottomans

Ali Pasha
Ottoman rule proved particularly damaging in Epirus; the region was subjected to deforestation and excessive cultivation, which damaged the soil and drove many
Epirotes to emigrate to escape the region's pervasive poverty. Nonetheless, the Ottomans did not enjoy total control of Epirus. In 1443 George Kastrioti
Skenderbeg revolted against the Ottoman Empire and conquered Northern Epirus, but on his death it fell to
Venice. The Ottomans expelled the Venetians from almost the whole area in the late
15th century.
In the
18th century, as the power of the Ottomans declined, Epirus became a virtually independent region under the despotic rule of
Ali Pasha, an Albanian brigand who became the provincial governor of Ioannina in 1788 . At the height of his power, he controlled much of western Greece, the
Peloponnese and Albania. Ali Pasha's campaigns to subjugate the confederation of the
Souli settlements is a well known incident of his rule. His forces met fierce resistance by the Souliote warriors of the mountainous area. After numerous failed attempts to defeat the Souliotes, his troops succeeded in conquering the area in 1803 . When the
Greek War of Independence broke out, Ali tried to make himself an independent ruler, but he was deposed and murdered by Ottoman agents in
1822.
When Greece became independent, Epirus remained under Ottoman rule. However, the inhabitants of the region contributed greatly to the
Greek War of Independence. Two of the founding members of the
Filiki Eteria (secret patriotic society),
Nikolaos Skoufas and Athanasios Tsakalov, came from the
Arta area and the city of
Ioannina respectively. Greece's first constitutional prime minister (1844-1847),
Ioannis Kolettis, was a native of the
Aromanian town of Syrrako in Epirus.
20th century Epirus
The
Treaty of Berlin of 1881 gave Greece parts of southern Epirus, but it was not until the
Balkan Wars of
1912-
13 that the rest of southern Epirus joined Greece. Northern Epirus was awarded to Albania by an international boundary commission. This outcome was unpopular among both Greeks and Albanians, as settlements of the two people existed on both sides of the border. Among Greeks, northern Epirus was regarded as ''
terra irredenta''.
When
World War I broke out in 1914 , Albania collapsed. Under a March 1915 agreement among the
Allies, Italy seized northern Albania and Greece set up an autonomous Greek state of North Epirus in the southern part of the country. Although short-lived, the state of North Epirus managed to leave behind a number of historical records of its existence, including its own postage stamps; see
Postage stamps and postal history of Epirus.
Although the
Paris Peace Conference of 1919 awarded the area to Greece after
World War I, political developments such as the Greek defeat in the
Greco-Turkish War and, crucially, Italian, Austrian and German lobbying in favour of Albania meant that Greece, although backed by Russia, could not claim northern Epirus. The area was finally ceded to Albania in
1924.
Italy occupied Albania in 1939 and in 1940 invaded Greece. The Italians were, however, driven back into Albania and Greece again took control of northern Epirus. The conflict, known as the
Greco-Italian War, marked one of the first tactical victories of the
Allies in
World War II.
Mussolini himself supervised the massive counter-attack of his divisions in spring 1941 , only to be decisively defeated again by the poorly equipped, but determined, Greeks.
Nazi Germany intervened in April 1941 to avert an embarrassing Italian defeat. The German military performed rapid military maneuvers through
Yugoslavia and forced the encircled Greek forces to surrender.
The whole of Epirus was then placed under Italian occupation until 1943 , when the Germans took over following the Italian surrender to the Allies. The highlands of Epirus became the major theatre of guerrilla inter-fighting between the
communist National People's Liberation Army (ELAS) and the
republican
National Republican Greek League (EDES). Following the German withdrawal from Greece in 1944 , the mountains of Epirus became the scene of some of the fiercest fighting of the
Greek Civil War.
It was during this time that
Cham Albanians were forced out of Greek Epirus; members of the Cham community had collaborated with the
Axis forces during the occupation of Greece, and when the Cham bands declined EDES' request to help them against ELAS, the former, with British support, attacked Cham villages killing 5,000 civilians and forcing about 35,000 to flee.
[11]
The current
President of the
Hellenic Republic,
Karolos Papoulias, is a native of Ioannina, Epirus.
References
1. Babiniotis, Lexiko tis Neas Ellinikis Glossas, Athens 1998.
2. Apollodorus, ''TheLibrary, 3.7.6-3.7.7'' at Theoi Project [1]
3. Strabo, ''Geography, Book VII, 7, 5-8'' at LacusCurtius★ class=wikiexternal target=_blank>.html
4. Dionysius of Halicarnassus,''Roman Antiquities, Book XX, 10 (19.11)'' at LacusCurtius★ class=wikiexternal target=_blank>.html
5. Frontinus, ''Stratagems, Book II, V. On ambushes, 10, 19'' at LacusCurtius ★ class=wikiexternal target=_blank>.html#5
6. Pausanias, ''Description of Greece, 1.11.7-1.12.2 (Jones translation)'' at Theoi Project [2]
7. Ptolemy, ''The Geography, Epirus'': "Greece starts at Oricus and the most ancient part of Greece is Epirus."
8. Cassius Dio, ''Roman History, Book IX, 40, 3-4'' at LacusCurtius★ class=wikiexternal target=_blank>.html
9. Eutropius, ''Abridgment of Roman History’’(Historiae Romanae Breviarium) Book 2, ‘’XI, XIII’’’ at Tertullian [3]
10. Plutarch, ''Pyrrhus'', 1, 3-4.
11. M. Vickers, "The Cham Issue - Albanian National & Property Claims in Greece", (2002); M. Mazower (ed.), ''After the War Was Over; Reconstructing the Family, Nation, State in Greece, 1943-1960'', (2000), p. 25
See also
★
History of Greece
★
History of Albania
★
Dodona
★
Pyrrhus of Epirus
★
Molossians
★
Despotate of Epirus
★
Souliotes
★
Greco-Italian War
★
Cham Albanians
★
Northern Epirus in
Albania
★
Epirus (periphery) in
Greece
★
Paramythia
Bibliography
★ Plutarch, ''Pyrrhus''.
★
N. G. L. Hammond, ''Epirus''.
External links
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Ancient Epirus
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Etymology of the 70 most famous ancient Epirotan names
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Articles about Epirus History
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'iliochori.com'Information about Epirus