IRON GATE (DANUBE)
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:''For the Iron Gates built by Alexander the Great in the ''Alexander Romance'', see Gates of Alexander.''
The 'Iron Gate' (, , , , , ) is a gorge on the Danube River. It forms part of the boundary between Serbia and Romania. In the broad sense it encompasses a route of 134 km; in the narrow sense it only encompasses the last barrier on this route, just beyond the Romanian city of OrÅŸova, that contains a hydroelectric dam.
The gorge lies between Romania in the north and Serbia in the south. At this point, the river separates the southern Carpathian Mountains from the northwestern foothills of the Balkan Mountains. The Romanian and Hungarian names, ''PorÅ£ile de Fier'' and ''Vaskapu'', literally mean "Iron Gates" and are indeed used to name the entire range of gorges. An alternative Romanian name for the last part of the route is ''Clisura Dunării'', "Danube Gorge". In Serbia the gorge is known as ''Äerdap'' and is a national park, with the last part named ''Äerdapska klisura''.
The first narrowing of the Danube lies beyond the (Romanian) isle of Moldova Veche and is known as the ''Golubac gorge''. It is 14.5 km long and 230 m wide at the narrowest point. At its head, there is a medieval fort at Golubac, on the Serbian bank. Through the valley of ''Ljupovska'' is reached the second gorge, ''Gospodin Vir'', which is 15 km long and narrows to 220 m. The cliffs scale to 500 m and are the most difficult to reach here from land. The broader ''Donji Milanovac'' forms the connection with the ''Great'' and ''Small Kazan gorge'', which have a combined length of 19 km. The ''OrÅŸova valley'' is the last broad section before the river reaches the plains of Wallachia at the last gorge, the ''Sip gorge''.
The Great Kazan ("kazan" meaning "kettle") is the most famous and the most narrow gorge of the route: the river here narrows to 150 m and reaches a depth of up to 53 m. It was at this site that the Roman emperor Trajan had the legendary bridge erected by Apollodorus of Damascus. Construction of the bridge ran from 103 through 105, preceding Trajan's conquest of Dacia. On the right bank a Roman plaque commemorates him. On the Romanian bank, at the Small Kazan, the likeness of Trajan's Dacian opponent Decebalus was carved in rock from 1994 through 2004.
Significantly older treasures have been unearthed in the geographically less spectacular gorge of Gospodin Vir: in the 1960s the archaeological survey Lepenski Vir was unearthed, the most significant in Southeast Europe. The sandstone statues from the early neolithic are particularly splendid. Along with the other surveys that can be found in the Iron Gate, it indicates that the region has been inhabited for a very long time.
The riverbed rocks and the associated rapids made the gorge valley an infamous passage in shipping. In German, the passage is still known as the ''Kataraktenstrecke'', even though the cataracts are no more. Near the actual Iron Gate the ''Prigrada'' rock was the most important obstacle till 1896: the river widened considerably here and the water level was consequently low. Upstream, the ''Greben'' rock near the Kazan gorge was notorious.
In 1831 a plan had already been drafted to make the passage navigable, at the initiative of the Hungarian politician István Széchenyi. Finally Gábor Baross, Hungary's "Iron Minister", completed the financing for this project.
In 1890, beyond OrÅŸova, rocks were cleared by explosion over a two km stretch to create an 80 m wide and 3 m deep channel. A spur of the Greben Mountains was removed across a length of over 2 km. Here, a depth of 2 m sufficed. On 17 September, 1896, the Sip Channel thus created (named after the Serbian village on the right bank) was inaugurated by the Austro-Hungarian emperor Franz Joseph, the Romanian king Carol I, and the Serbian king Alexander Obrenovich.
The results of these efforts were slightly disappointing. The currents in the channel were so strong that, until 1973, ships had to be dragged upstream by locomotive. The Iron Gate thus remained an obstacle of note.
The construction of the joint Romanian-Yugoslavian mega project that would finally tame the river commenced in 1964. In 1972 the Iron Gate Dam was opened, along with two hydroelectric power stations and two sluices.
The construction of this dam gave the valley of the Danube below Belgrade the nature of a reservoir, and additionally caused a 35 m rise in the water level of the river near the dam. The old OrÅŸova, the Danube island Ada Kaleh (below) and at least five other villages, totaling a population of 17,000, had to make way. People were relocated, but the settlements have been lost forever to the Danube.
The dam's construction had a major impact on the environment as well—for example, the spawning routes of several species of sturgeon were permanently interrupted.
That said, the flora and fauna, as well as the geomorphological, archaeological and cultural historical artifacts of the Iron Gate have been under protection from both nations since the construction of the dam. In Serbia this is done with the Äerdap National Park (since 1974, 636.08 km²) and in Romania by the PorÅ£ile de Fier National Park (since 2001, 1,156.55 km²).
: ''Main article: Ada Kaleh''
The isle of Ada Kaleh is probably the most evocative victim of the Äerdap dam's construction. A Turkish enclave, it had a mosque and a thousand twisting alleys, and was known as a free port and smuggler's nest. Many other ethnic groups lived there beside Turks.
The island was about 3 km downstream from OrÅŸova and measured 1.7 by 0.4-0.5 km. It was walled: the Austrians built a fort there in 1669 to defend it from the Turks, and that fort would remain a bone of contention for the two empires. In 1699 the island came under Turkish control, from 1716 to 1718 it was Austrian, after a four month siege in 1738 it was Turkish again, followed by the Austrians reconquering it in 1789, only to have to yield it to the Turks in the trailing peace treaty. Thereafter, the island lost its military importance. The 1878 Congress of Berlin forced the Ottoman Empire to retreat far into the south, and the island came under the control of Austria-Hungary, though it remained the property of the Turkish sultan. The inhabitants enjoyed exemption from taxes and customs and were not conscripted. In 1923, when the Ottoman monarchy had disappeared, the inhabitants chose to join Romania.
The Ada Kaleh mosque dated from 1903 and was built on the site of an earlier Franciscan monastery. The carpet, a gift from the Turkish sultan, has been located in the Constanţa mosque since 1965.
Most Ada Kaleh inhabitants emigrated to Turkey after the evacuation of the island. A smaller part went to Dobruja, another Romanian territory with a Turkish minority.
★ The 2003 film ''Donau, Duna, Dunaj, Dunav, Dunarea'' contains several minutes of film of the Iron Gate.
Äerdap
★ Djerdap National Park
★ PorÅ£ile de Fier National Park
★ Lepenski Vir
★ ''Ada Kaleh, die Inselfestung'', also the source of the Ada Kaleh section in this article
★ Images of the Iron Gates
The 'Iron Gate' (, , , , , ) is a gorge on the Danube River. It forms part of the boundary between Serbia and Romania. In the broad sense it encompasses a route of 134 km; in the narrow sense it only encompasses the last barrier on this route, just beyond the Romanian city of OrÅŸova, that contains a hydroelectric dam.
The gorge lies between Romania in the north and Serbia in the south. At this point, the river separates the southern Carpathian Mountains from the northwestern foothills of the Balkan Mountains. The Romanian and Hungarian names, ''PorÅ£ile de Fier'' and ''Vaskapu'', literally mean "Iron Gates" and are indeed used to name the entire range of gorges. An alternative Romanian name for the last part of the route is ''Clisura Dunării'', "Danube Gorge". In Serbia the gorge is known as ''Äerdap'' and is a national park, with the last part named ''Äerdapska klisura''.
| Contents |
| The gorges |
| The channel |
| The dam |
| Ada Kaleh |
| Portrayals in film |
| See also |
| External links |
The gorges
The Iron Gate of the Danube
The first narrowing of the Danube lies beyond the (Romanian) isle of Moldova Veche and is known as the ''Golubac gorge''. It is 14.5 km long and 230 m wide at the narrowest point. At its head, there is a medieval fort at Golubac, on the Serbian bank. Through the valley of ''Ljupovska'' is reached the second gorge, ''Gospodin Vir'', which is 15 km long and narrows to 220 m. The cliffs scale to 500 m and are the most difficult to reach here from land. The broader ''Donji Milanovac'' forms the connection with the ''Great'' and ''Small Kazan gorge'', which have a combined length of 19 km. The ''OrÅŸova valley'' is the last broad section before the river reaches the plains of Wallachia at the last gorge, the ''Sip gorge''.
The Great Kazan ("kazan" meaning "kettle") is the most famous and the most narrow gorge of the route: the river here narrows to 150 m and reaches a depth of up to 53 m. It was at this site that the Roman emperor Trajan had the legendary bridge erected by Apollodorus of Damascus. Construction of the bridge ran from 103 through 105, preceding Trajan's conquest of Dacia. On the right bank a Roman plaque commemorates him. On the Romanian bank, at the Small Kazan, the likeness of Trajan's Dacian opponent Decebalus was carved in rock from 1994 through 2004.
Significantly older treasures have been unearthed in the geographically less spectacular gorge of Gospodin Vir: in the 1960s the archaeological survey Lepenski Vir was unearthed, the most significant in Southeast Europe. The sandstone statues from the early neolithic are particularly splendid. Along with the other surveys that can be found in the Iron Gate, it indicates that the region has been inhabited for a very long time.
The channel
The riverbed rocks and the associated rapids made the gorge valley an infamous passage in shipping. In German, the passage is still known as the ''Kataraktenstrecke'', even though the cataracts are no more. Near the actual Iron Gate the ''Prigrada'' rock was the most important obstacle till 1896: the river widened considerably here and the water level was consequently low. Upstream, the ''Greben'' rock near the Kazan gorge was notorious.
In 1831 a plan had already been drafted to make the passage navigable, at the initiative of the Hungarian politician István Széchenyi. Finally Gábor Baross, Hungary's "Iron Minister", completed the financing for this project.
In 1890, beyond OrÅŸova, rocks were cleared by explosion over a two km stretch to create an 80 m wide and 3 m deep channel. A spur of the Greben Mountains was removed across a length of over 2 km. Here, a depth of 2 m sufficed. On 17 September, 1896, the Sip Channel thus created (named after the Serbian village on the right bank) was inaugurated by the Austro-Hungarian emperor Franz Joseph, the Romanian king Carol I, and the Serbian king Alexander Obrenovich.
The results of these efforts were slightly disappointing. The currents in the channel were so strong that, until 1973, ships had to be dragged upstream by locomotive. The Iron Gate thus remained an obstacle of note.
The dam
Iron Gate dam
The construction of the joint Romanian-Yugoslavian mega project that would finally tame the river commenced in 1964. In 1972 the Iron Gate Dam was opened, along with two hydroelectric power stations and two sluices.
The construction of this dam gave the valley of the Danube below Belgrade the nature of a reservoir, and additionally caused a 35 m rise in the water level of the river near the dam. The old OrÅŸova, the Danube island Ada Kaleh (below) and at least five other villages, totaling a population of 17,000, had to make way. People were relocated, but the settlements have been lost forever to the Danube.
The dam's construction had a major impact on the environment as well—for example, the spawning routes of several species of sturgeon were permanently interrupted.
That said, the flora and fauna, as well as the geomorphological, archaeological and cultural historical artifacts of the Iron Gate have been under protection from both nations since the construction of the dam. In Serbia this is done with the Äerdap National Park (since 1974, 636.08 km²) and in Romania by the PorÅ£ile de Fier National Park (since 2001, 1,156.55 km²).
Ada Kaleh
: ''Main article: Ada Kaleh''
The isle of Ada Kaleh is probably the most evocative victim of the Äerdap dam's construction. A Turkish enclave, it had a mosque and a thousand twisting alleys, and was known as a free port and smuggler's nest. Many other ethnic groups lived there beside Turks.
The island was about 3 km downstream from OrÅŸova and measured 1.7 by 0.4-0.5 km. It was walled: the Austrians built a fort there in 1669 to defend it from the Turks, and that fort would remain a bone of contention for the two empires. In 1699 the island came under Turkish control, from 1716 to 1718 it was Austrian, after a four month siege in 1738 it was Turkish again, followed by the Austrians reconquering it in 1789, only to have to yield it to the Turks in the trailing peace treaty. Thereafter, the island lost its military importance. The 1878 Congress of Berlin forced the Ottoman Empire to retreat far into the south, and the island came under the control of Austria-Hungary, though it remained the property of the Turkish sultan. The inhabitants enjoyed exemption from taxes and customs and were not conscripted. In 1923, when the Ottoman monarchy had disappeared, the inhabitants chose to join Romania.
The Ada Kaleh mosque dated from 1903 and was built on the site of an earlier Franciscan monastery. The carpet, a gift from the Turkish sultan, has been located in the Constanţa mosque since 1965.
Most Ada Kaleh inhabitants emigrated to Turkey after the evacuation of the island. A smaller part went to Dobruja, another Romanian territory with a Turkish minority.
Portrayals in film
★ The 2003 film ''Donau, Duna, Dunaj, Dunav, Dunarea'' contains several minutes of film of the Iron Gate.
See also
Äerdap
External links
★ Djerdap National Park
★ PorÅ£ile de Fier National Park
★ Lepenski Vir
★ ''Ada Kaleh, die Inselfestung'', also the source of the Ada Kaleh section in this article
★ Images of the Iron Gates
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