
''Kranz'' (Wreath) of Kölsch

Kölsch
'Kölsch' is a local
beer speciality, brewed in
Cologne,
Germany. It is a clear beer with a bright straw yellow hue, and it has a prominent, but not extreme,
hoppiness. It is less bitter than the standard German lager beer,
Pils. Furthermore, Kölsch is a
top-fermented beer (an ale), meaning that it is
fermented at 15 to 20°C (60 to 68°F) and the yeast tends to collect at the top, as opposed to
bottom-fermented beer (a lager) fermented at much colder temperatures. Kölsch yeast is often confused with a bottom-fermenting lager yeast because of its relatively low fermentation temperature. Although Kölsch ferments colder than most
ales, its yeast is definitely an ale strain.
Kölsch should be served at cellar temperature (about 10°C/50°F, not near freezing). It is usually served in long, thin, cylindrical 0.2
litre glasses. This glass is known as a ''Stange'' (pole), but is often derisively called a ''Reagenzglas'' (test tube), or ''Fingerhut'' (thimble). Recently though, many bars have moved to satisfy their more thirsty customers by offering larger, less traditional glasses (0.3 l or 0.4 l) of the same shape, but connoisseurs would even drink it from smaller (0.1 l) glasses, called "Stößche" (Cologne dialect noun for a German verb "stürzen" = to gulp), as the taste and shape of Kölsch which has no carbonic acid added is at its best when freshly draught. Since
1936 Kölsch has also been available in bottled form.
Beer has been brewed in Cologne since
874. The term Kölsch was officially used for the first time in
1918 to describe the type of beer that had been brewed by the
Sünner brewery since
1906. This type of beer developed from the similar, but cloudier variant ''
Wiess''. It never became particularly popular in the first half of the
twentieth century, when the most popular beer was bottom-fermented, just as in the rest of Germany. Before
World War II, there were over 40
breweries in Cologne, but in the aftermath of the devastations wrought by the war, that number was reduced to two.
In
1946, however, many of the breweries managed to re-establish themselves. During the
1940s and
1950s Kölsch still could not match the sales of bottom-fermented beer, but beginning in the
1960s it rose in popularity and achieved hegemony in the Cologne beer market. From a production of merely 500,000 hectoliters in
1960, Cologne's beer production peaked in
1980, when 3.7 million hectoliters were produced. Due to recent increases in price and changed habits of alcohol consumption, the sale has decreased causing economic hardship for many of the traditional corner bars (''
Kölschkneipen'') and for smaller breweries. In 2005, 2.4 million hectolitres of Kölsch were brewed
[1].
Fourteen breweries produce Kölsch in and around Cologne, the most important ones being ''
Früh'', ''
Erzquell (Zunft Kölsch)'', ''
Gaffel'', ''
Reissdorf'' and ''
Kölner Verbund''; the trend is towards consolidation. Kölsch is the only beer that may not be brewed outside the Cologne region, as determined by the
Kölsch convention of
1986. There is a
grandfather clause for a few breweries in the larger area, for example in
Bonn, that were already established as of 1986. In 1997 Kölsch became a
protected designation of origin, expanding this protection to the entire
EU and several counties outside the EU. Nevertheless many brands are brewed abroad on a small scale - especially in the
U.S. and
Japan. While the labeling of these brews as Kölsch may not be illegal in local law, it is certainly misleading, because they are neither from Cologne nor are they guaranteed to comply with the
Reinheitsgebot.
Culture of Kölsch consumption
Kölsch stands in direct competition to
Altbier, the production of which is centred around
Düsseldorf, but which is ironically also produced by all the major breweries in Cologne; the difference between the two types is indeed technically slight, Altbier being fermented at slightly higher temperatures than Kölsch and using dark malt, harder water and far more bittering hops, resulting in a nuttier, firmer and more dry taste. The rivalry between the cities of Cologne and Düsseldorf, bitter in the past but today mostly a humorous matter, is often expressed by the preference of one of these types of beer, and ordering the wrong kind in the wrong city has in fact resulted in abuse and even violence in the past, although today a couple of jokes about ''foreigners'' is probably all that would result. Another interesting
sociological point concerning Kölsch is that its consumption is deemed acceptable by women to a much greater extent than other beers in
Germany, and also that it is often drunk in groups of rather mixed social standing — exclusiveness is frowned upon by the Kölsch drinking culture, and there is a deal between the breweries that no Kölsch will be sold with any extra titles like "Premium", "Special", "Extra high quality" or some such.
Karl Marx once famously remarked that his revolution could not work in Cologne, since the bosses went to the same pubs as their workers. Kölsch waiters (''Köbes'') in traditional pubs are allowed, and indeed expected, to speak the local dialect and to use fairly rough, unrefined language, which might include crude jokes with the customers. In keeping with serving tradition, the ''Köbes'' in such pubs will also continue to exchange empty Kölsch glasses with new ones unprompted until customers leave their glass half full or place the beermat upon the glass to signal that they no longer wish to be served.
In
1999, during a
G8 summit, President
Bill Clinton paid the brewery ''Zur Malzmühle'' (''The Malt Mill'') a surprise visit.
Because it is quite dry, some consumers, particularly women and the elderly, may take their Kölsch with a splash of
cola (the result is called Kölschcola) or
Malzbier to sweeten it.
Trivia
★ Because of the now-friendly rivalry between Köln and
Altbier-producing cities, particularly
Düsseldorf, one can purchase PC keyboards in Köln with a "Kölsch key", instead of an "Alt" key.
Notes
1. Volume of Kölsch Production
External links
★
Cologne Pub Guide
★
Kölsch-Konvention
★
Deutsche Brauer Bund description of Kölsch
Selected Kölsch Brands
★
Dom Kölsch
★
Früh Kölsch
★
Gaffel Kölsch
★
Gilden Kölsch
★
Küppers Kölsch
★
Mühlen Kölsch
★
Reissdorf Kölsch
★
Sion Kölsch
★
Sünner Kölsch
★
Zunft Kölsch
★
Sester Kölsch
★
Päffgen Kölsch
See also
★
German beer