
Kamchatka is home to many volcanoes, including
Avachinsky shown here
'Kamchatka Peninsula' () is a 1,250-kilometer long
peninsula in the
Russian Far East, with an area of 472,300 km². It lies between the
Pacific Ocean to the east and the
Sea of Okhotsk to the west. Immediately offshore along the Pacific coast of the peninsula runs the 10,500 meter deep
Kuril-Kamchatka Trench.
The Kamchatka Peninsula, the
Commander Islands, and
Karaginsky Island constitute the
Kamchatka Krai of the
Russian Federation. The majority of the 402,500 inhabitants are
Russians, but there are also about 13,000
Koryaks. More than half of the population lives in
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky (198,028 people) and
Yelizovo (41,533).
Geography and climate
The
Kamchatka River and the surrounding Central Valley are flanked by large
volcanic belts, containing around 160
volcanoes, 29 of them still active. Thus, the peninsula has perhaps the highest density of volcanoes and associated volcanic phenomena in the world, with 19 active volcanos being included on the
UNESCO World Heritage List.
The highest volcano is
Klyuchevskaya Sopka (4,750 m or 15,584 ft), while the most striking is
Kronotsky, whose perfect cone was said by celebrated volcanologists Robert and Barbara Decker to be a prime candidate for the world's most beautiful volcano. Somewhat more accessible are the three volcanoes visible from
Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky:
Koryaksky,
Avachinsky, and
Kozelsky. In the center of Kamchatka is Eurasia's only
Geyser Valley; it was partly destroyed by a massive mudslide in June 2007.
Owing to the
Kuril-Kamchatka Trench, deep-focus seismic events and tsunamis are fairly common. A pair of
megathrust earthquakes
occurred off the coast on
October 16,
1737, and on
November 4,
1952, in the magnitude of ~9.3 and 9.0 respectively.
A chain of more shallow earthquakes were recorded as recently as
April 2006.
Kamchatka receives up to of precipitation per year. The summers are moderately cool, and the winters tend to be rather stormy with rare amounts of lightning.
The southernmost point of Kamchatka Peninsula is
Cape Lopatka.
Terrestrial and aquatic fauna
Kamchatka boasts diverse and abundant wildlife. This is due to climates ranging from temperate to subarctic, diverse topography and geography, many free-flowing rivers, proximity to highly productive waters from the northwestern
Pacific Ocean and the
Bering and
Okhotsk Seas, and to the low human density and minimal development. Nonetheless, commercial exploitation of marine resources and a history of fur trapping has taken its toll on several species.
Among terrestrial mammals, Kamchatka is best known for the abundance and size of its
brown bear populations. In the Kronotsky Nature Preserve there are estimated to be three to four individuals per 100 square kilometres
[1]. Other fauna of note include carnivores such as
wolf,
arctic and other
fox,
lynx,
wolverine,
sable, several species of
weasel,
ermine and
river otter; several large ungulates, such as
bighorn sheep,
reindeer, and
moose and rodents, including
hares,
marmot,
lemming and several species of
squirrel.
The peninsula is the breeding ground for
Steller's sea eagle, one of the largest eagle species, along with the
golden eagle and
gyr falcon.

Topography of the Kamchatka Peninsula
Kamchatka contains probably the world's greatest diversity of
salmonid fish, including all six species of anadromous
Pacific salmon (
chinook,
chum,
coho,
seema,
pink, and
red salmon). Biologists estimate that a sixth to a quarter of the world's Pacific salmon originate in Kamchatka.
[2] Kuril Lake is recognized as the biggest spawning-ground for
red salmon in Eurasia. In response to pressure from poaching and to worldwide decreases in salmon stocks, some along nine of the more productive salmon rivers are in the process of being set aside as a nature preserve.
Cetaceans that frequent the highly productive waters of the northwestern Pacific and the
Okhotsk Sea include:
orcas,
Dall's and
harbor porpoises,
humpback whales,
sperm whales and
fin whales. Less frequently,
grey whales (from the Eastern population),
beaked whales and
minke whales are encountered.
Blue whale are known to feed in summer off of the southeastern shelf. Among pinnipeds,
Steller's sea lions,
northern fur seals,
spotted seals and
harbor seals are abundant along much of the peninsula. Further north,
walruses and
bearded seals can be encountered on the Pacific side, and
ribbon seals reproduce on the ice of
Karaginsky Bay.
Sea otters are concentrated primarily on the southern end of the peninsula.
Seabirds include
northern fulmars, thick and thin-billed
murres,
kittiwakes, tufted and horned
puffins, red-faced, pelagic and other
cormorants, and many other species.
Typical of the northern seas, the marine fauna is likewise rich. Of commercial importance are
Kamchatka crab,
scallop,
squid,
pollock,
cod,
herring,
halibut and several species of
flatfish.
History and exploration
Muscovite Russia claimed the Kamchatka Peninsula in the 17th century.
Ivan Kamchaty,
Simon Dezhnev, the
Cossack Ivan Rubets and other Russian explorers made exploratory trips to the area during the reign of
Tsar Alexis, and returned with tales of a ''land of fire'', rich with fish and fur.
In 1697,
Vladimir Atlasov, founder of the
Anadyr settlement, led a group of 65
Cossacks and 60
Yukaghir natives to investigate the peninsula. He built two forts along the Kamchatka River which became trading posts for Russian
fur trappers. From 1704 to 1706, they settled the Cossack colonies of ''Verkhne-'' (upper) and ''Nizhne-'' (lower) ''Kamchatsky''. Far away from the eye of their masters, the Cossacks mercilessly ruled the indigenous
Kamchadal.
Excesses were such that the North West Administration in
Yakutsk sent Atlasov with the authority (and the cannons) to restore government order, but it was too late. The local
Cossacks had too much power in their own hands and in 1711 Atlasov was killed. From this time on, Kamchatka became a self-regulating region, with minimal interference from Yakutsk.
By 1713, there were approximately five hundred Cossacks living in the area. Uprisings were common, the largest being in 1731 when the settlement of ''Nizhnekamchatsky'' was razed and its inhabitants massacred. The remaining Cossacks regrouped and, reinforced with firearms and cannons, were able to put down the rebellion.
The
Second Kamchatka Expedition by the
Russian explorer
Vitus Bering began the "opening" of Kamchatka in earnest, helped by the fact that the government began to use the area as a place of exile. In 1755,
Stepan Krasheninnikov published the first detailed description of the peninsula, ''An Account of the Land of Kamchatka''. The Russian government encouraged the commercial activities of the
Russian-American Company by granting land to newcomers on the peninsula. By 1812, the indigenous population had fallen to fewer than 3,200, while the Russian population had risen to 2,500.
In 1854, the
French and
British, who were battling Russian forces on the
Crimean Peninsula, attacked Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky. During the
Siege of Petropavlovsk, 988 men with a mere 68 guns managed successfully to defend the outpost against 6 ships with 206 guns and 2,540 French and English soldiers. Despite the heroic defense, Petropavlovsk was abandoned as a strategic liability after the Anglo-French forces withdrew. The next year when a second enemy force came to attack the port, they found it deserted. Frustrated, the ships bombarded the city and withdrew.
The next fifty years were lean ones for Kamchatka. The military naval port was moved to
Ust-Amur and in 1867
Alaska was sold to the
United States, making Petropavlovsk obsolete as a transit point for traders and explorers on their way to the American territories. In 1860, ''Primorsky'' (Maritime) ''Region'' was established and Kamchatka was placed under its jurisdiction. In 1875, the
Kuril Islands were ceded to
Japan in return for Russian sovereignty over
Sakhalin. The Russian population of Kamchatka stayed around 2,500 until the turn of the century, while the native population increased to 5,000.
World War II hardly affected Kamchatka except for its service as a launch site for the invasion of the Kurils in late 1945. After the war, Kamchatka was declared a military zone. Kamchatka remained closed to Russians until 1989 and to foreigners until 1990.
References
External links
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Commander Islands
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Google maps of Kamchatka
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"A Tale of Two Airplanes" by Ltc. Kingdon R. Hawes