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'Commander Islands' or 'Komandorski Islands' (, ''Komandorskiye ostrova'') are a group of treeless
Russian
islands located 175 km east of the
Kamchatka Peninsula in the
Russian Far East, in the
Bering Sea. The islands consist of
Bering Island (95 km by 15 km),
Medny Island (55 km by 5 km), and fifteen smaller ones, the largest of which are Kamen Toporkov (''Puffin Rock'') and Ariy Island.
Administratively, they compose
Aleutsky District of
Kamchatka Krai.
Geography
The Commander Islands are the westernmost extension of the
Aleutian Islands, though they are separated from the rest of the chain by several hundred miles. The relief is somewhat diverse, encompassing folded-block mountains,
volcanic plateaus, terraced plains, and low mountains. The geologic origins are long-extinct
volcanoes on the edge of the
Pacific and
North American Plates. The highest point is Steller Peak on Bering Island at 755 m. The highest point on Medny Island is Stenjeger's Peak at 647 m.
The climate is relatively mild and maritime, with frequent precipitation (220–240 days/year). The cool summers are notoriously foggy.
Population
The only permanently inhabited locality is the village of
Nikolskoye on the northwest end of Bering Island, with estimated population of 750 as of 2005. The population is almost entirely comprised of Russians and
Aleuts. The majority of the islands' area, as well as much of the adjacent marine habitat (3,648,679 ha), is taken up by the
Komandorsky Zapovednik, a natural preserve. The economy is based primarily on fishing, mushroom gathering, the administration of the
zapovednik, ecotourism, and government services.
Natural history
Due to the high productivity of the Bering Sea shelf and the Pacific slope and their remoteness from human influence, the Commander Islands are home to a great abundance of animal life. Notably, very significant aggregations (both reproductive rookeries and non-reproductive haul-outs) of
northern fur seal (some 200,000 individuals) and
Steller sea lion (approximately 5,000 individuals) are found there.
Sea otters,
common seals, and
larga seals are likewise abundant. Indeed, the
sea otter population is stable and possibly increasing, even as their population is falling in the rest of the Aleutian islands.
The neighboring waters provide important feeding, wintering, and migrating habitat for many whale species, many of which are threatened or endangered. Among include:
sperm whale,
orca, several species of
beaked whale and
porpoise,
humpback, and
right whale.
The much less diverse terrestrial fauna includes two distinct, endemic subspecies of
arctic fox, (''Alopex lagopus semenovi'' and ''A. l. beringensis''). Though relatively healthy now, these populations had been significantly depleted in the past due to the fur trade. Most other terrestrial species, including wild
reindeer,
American mink, and
rats have all been introduced to the islands by man.
Over a million seabirds gather to nest on numerous large colonies along almost all the coastal cliffs. The most common are:
fulmars,
murres (common and thick-billed),
puffins (horned and tufted),
guillemots,
cormorants,
gulls, and
kittiwakes including the extremely localized
Red-legged Kittiwake which nests in only three other locations in the world.
Waterfowl and
sandpipers are also abundant along the pre-lake depressions and river valleys of Bering Island, though largely absent from Medny Island. Migratory birds of note with critical nesting or feeding habitat on the islands include such species as the endangered
whooping crane,
Steller's eider,
Pacific golden plover, and
Aleutian tern. Raptors of note include the rare
Steller sea eagle and
gyrfalcon. In total, over 180 bird species have been registered on the Commander Islands.
The fish fauna in the mountainous, fast running streams in composed primarily of migratory
salmonids, including
Arctic char,
Dolly Varden,
black spotted trout,
chinook,
sockeye,
coho and
pink salmon.
Bering Island was the only known habitat of
Steller's sea cow, an immense (over 4,000 kg)
sirenian similar to the
manatee. The sea cow was hunted to
extinction within forty years of its discovery in 1741. The
spectacled cormorant, a large essentially flightless bird in the
cormorant family, was similarly driven to extinction by around 1850.
History
The Commander Islands received their name after Commander
Vitus Bering, who died there in 1741 after his ship St. Peter wrecked on the otherwise uninhabted Bering Island on his return voyage from
Alaska. Bering himself died on the island, where his grave is marked by a modest monument. Some of the crew, however, managed to survive the winter, thanks in part to the efforts of naturalist and physician
Georg Wilhelm Steller and to the abundance of wildlife, notably the newly discovered
Steller's sea cow. Eventually, they managed to rebuild the St. Peter and sail back to Kamchatka. The sea otter pelts that the crewmen of Bering's expedition brought back to the mainland sparked the great rush of fur-seeking "Promyshlenniky" which drove the Russian expansion into Alaska. The Steller sea cow, whose habitat was apparently restricted to the kelp-beds around Bering Island, was extirpated by 1768.
Aleut (Unangan) people were transferred to the Commander Islands early in 1825 by the
Russian-American Company from the
Aleutians for the
seal trade. Most of the Aleuts inhabiting Bering Island came from
Atka Island and those who lived on Medny Island came from
Attu Island, both nowadays American possessions. Today the population of the islands is about 2/3 Russian and 1/3 Aleut.
The 1943
Battle of the Komandorski Islands took place in the open sea about south of the islands.
Territorial disputes
Two smaller groups of rocks near Medny Island,
Sea Lion Rock (Сивучий Камень, ''Sivuchy Kamen'') and
Sea Otter Rocks (Камни Бобровые, ''Kamni Bobrovyye''), are regarded by some U.S. individuals as contested territory. However, the U.S. government makes no claim to the islands, and recognizes them as Russian territory
[1].
Reference
★ Richard Ellis ''Encyclopedia of the Sea'' New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 2001
External links
★
Unofficial website of the Commander Islands
★
Photos of the Commander Islands
★
Overview of the Kommandorsky Zapovednik
★
Details of their current situation
★
[2]