'Labdanum' is a sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs ''
Cistus ladanifer'' (western Mediterranean) and ''
Cistus creticus'' (eastern Mediterranean), species of
rockrose. It has a long history of use in
herbal medicine and as a
perfume ingredient.
History
In ancient times, the resin was scraped from the fur of
goats and
sheep that had grazed on the cistus shrubs. It was collected by the shepherds and sold to coastal traders. The false beards worn by the
pharaohs of ancient
Egypt were actually the labdanum soaked hair of these goats. Later long poles with leather or cloth strips were used to sweep the shrubs and collect the resin which was later extracted. It was used to treat colds, coughs, menstrual problems and rheumatism.
Modern uses
Labdanum is produced today mainly for the perfume industry. The raw resin is usually extracted by boiling the leaves and twigs. An
absolute is also obtained by solvent extraction. An essential oil is produced by
steam distillation. The raw gum is a dark brown, fragrant mass containing up to 20% or more of water. It is
plastic but not pourable, and becomes brittle with age. The absolute is dark amber-green and very thick at room temperature. The fragrance more refined than the raw resin. The odour is very rich, complex and tenacious. Labdanum is much valued in
perfumery because of its resemblance to
ambergris, which has been banned from use in many countries because its precursor originates from the
sperm whale, which is an endangered species. The odour is variously described as sweet, woody, ambergris, dry musk, or like that of leather.
See also
★
Labdane