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North face of Aneto.
'Aneto' is the highest
mountain in the
Pyrenees. It lies in the
Spanish province of
Huesca, in the north of
Aragon. It forms the southernmost part of the
Maladeta massif. Its
French name, ''Néthou'', is falling out of favor as the mountain lies entirely within Spain.
Climbing
The mountain's ascent is usually made from the
Refuge of the Rencluse (2,140 m). From there, the itinerary traverses the longest part of the
glacier that extends to the north of the peak. The summit is defended by a short rocky passage called the Bridge of Mohammed. It is a narrow ridge of large, stable blocks, with an exposed void on each side. At the summit is an impressive cross and a contrasting view, with the snow-covered Maladeta massif north and the somber and dry
Alto Aragon to the south.
First Ascent
On
July 18,
1842,
Platon de Tchihatcheff (''Чихачёв, Chikhachev''), a former Russian officer staying in Luchon, left from
Bagnères-de-Luchon accompanied by guides Pierre Sanio de Luz, Luchonnais Bernard Arrazau and Pierre Redonnet. Also in the party were Albert de Franqueville, a Norman botanist, and his guide, Jean Sors. They took the trail from the
Hospice de France, crossed the
Benasque pass, then spent the night at the shelter of La Renclusa, a simple construction of dry rocks that is now a large mountain refuge.
The next day, they crossed a pass towards Alba pass and lost their way on the south slope around lake Gregueña. Late in the day, at the end of their strength, they took refuge for the night in a cabin near the Vallibierna valley.
As the sun rose the next morning, the group left for the Coroné pass. Despite a fear of crevasses, they decided to approach the summit by the glacier. After climbing a ridge only a few meters wide (baptized the "Bridge of Mahoma" by Albert de Franqueville), they reached the summit on
July 20,
1842, where they constructed a
cairn and left a bottle containing each climber's name.
First Winter Ascent
The first winter ascent of the mountain was achieved on
March 1,
1878 by Roger de Monts, B. Courrèges, and B. and V. Paget.
Trivia
An
aviation intersection called 'ANETO' exists very close to the mountain itself, exactly on the border of France and Spain. For pilots crossing the Pyrenees this intersection marks the boundary between the
Bordeaux and
Barcelona airspaces.

Panoramic view of the Maladeta massif.