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'
St Paul's Cathedral' is an Anglican
cathedral on
Ludgate Hill, in the
City of London,
England and the seat of the
Bishop of London. The present building dates from the
17th century, and is generally reckoned to be London's fifth ''St Paul's Cathedral'', although the number is higher if every major mediæval reconstruction is counted as a new cathedral. The cathedral is one of London's most visited sites.
The previous cathedrals
Pre-Norman
#There had been a late-Roman
See in London, but the first
Saxon cathedral was built out of wood, probably by
Mellitus or another of
the Augustinian missionaries, on the see's re-foundation in AD
604 on
Ludgate Hill in the western part of the old Roman city and the eastern part of
Lundenwic. It was these missionaries' habit, as in mainland Europe, to build cathedrals within old Roman city-walls. This building is traditionally said to have been on the site of an ancient
megalith, or stone circle, and a temple dedicated to the goddess
Diana, in alignment with the
Apollo Temple that once stood at
Westminster, although
Christopher Wren found no evidence of this (Kruger, 1943). This would have only been a modest chapel at first and may well have been destroyed after Mellitus was briefly expelled from the city by Saeberht's
pagan successors. It burned down in
675.
#The cathedral was rebuilt, in stone, in
685. In it was buried King or Saint
Sebbi of Essex. It was sacked by the
Vikings in
961, as cited in the
Anglo-Saxon Chronicle.
#The third cathedral was begun in 962, again in stone. In it was buried
Ethelred the Unready. It burnt, with the whole city, in a fire in
1087 (Anglo-Saxon Chronicle).
'Old St Paul's'
The fourth St Paul's (known as ''Old St Paul's'', a nineteenth century coinage, or ''the pre-Great Fire St Paul's''), was begun by the
Normans after the 1087 fire. Work took over 200 years, and a great deal was lost in a fire in
1136. The roof was once more built of wood, which was ultimately to doom the building. The church was consecrated in
1240, but a change of heart led to the commencement of an enlargement programme in 1256. This 'New Work' was completed in 1314 - the cathedral had been consecrated in
1300. It was the third-longest church in Europe. Excavations in 1878 by Francis Penrose showed it was 585 feet long and 100 feet wide (290 feet across the
transepts and
crossing), and had one of Europe's tallest spires, at some 489 feet (149 metres).
By the
16th century the building was decaying. Under
Henry VIII and
Edward VI, the
Dissolution of the Monasteries and
Chantries Acts led to the destruction of interior ornamentation and the
cloisters,
charnels,
crypts,
chapels,
shrines,
chantries and other buildings in the churchyard. Many of these former religious sites in St Paul's Churchyard, having been seized by the crown, were sold as shops and rental properties, especially to printers and booksellers, who were often
evangelical Protestants. Buildings that were razed often supplied ready-dressed building material for construction projects, such as the Lord Protector's city palace,
Somerset House.
Crowds were drawn to the northeast corner of the Churchyard, St Paul's Cross, where open air preaching took place. It was there in the Cross Yard in
1549 that radical Protestant preachers incited a mob to destroy many of the cathedral's interior decorations. In
1561 the spire was destroyed by lightning and it was not replaced; this event was taken by both Protestants and Catholics as a sign of God's displeasure at the other faction's actions.
England's first
classical architect, Sir
Inigo Jones, added the cathedral's west front in the
1630s, but there was much defacement and mistreatment of the building by Parliamentarian forces during the
English Civil War, when the old documents and charters were dispersed and destroyed (Kelly 2004). "Old St Paul's" was gutted in the
Great Fire of London of
1666. While it might have been salvageable, albeit with almost complete reconstruction, a decision was taken to build a new cathedral in a modern style instead. Indeed this had been contemplated even before the fire.
Wren's St Paul's
Design and construction
The task of designing a replacement structure was assigned to
Christopher Wren in
1668, along with over 50 other City churches. His first design, to build a replacement on the foundations of the old cathedral, was rejected in
1669. The second design, in the shape of a
Greek cross (circa
1670-
1672) was rejected as too radical, as was a revised design that resulted in the 1:24 scale "Great Model", on display in the crypt of the cathedral
[1]. The 'warrant' design was accepted in
1675 and building work began in June. The first stone of the cathedral was laid in
1677 by Thomas Strong, Wren's master stonemason.
[2] The 'warrant' design included a small dome with a spire on top, but
King Charles II had given Wren permission to make "ornamental" changes to the approved design and Wren took the liberty to radically rework the design to the current form, including the large central dome and the towers at the west end.
The cathedral was completed on October 20 1708, Wren's 76th birthday. On Thursday, December 2 1697, thirty-two years and three months after a spark from Farryner's bakery caused London to burst into flames, St. Paul's Cathedral came into use. The event proved to be well worth the wait. The widower King William III had been scheduled to appear but, uncomfortable in crowds and public displays, had, at the last minute, bowed out. The crowd of both the great and the small was so big, and their attitude towards William so indifferent, that he was scarcely missed. The Reverend Henry Compton, Bishop of London, preached the sermon. It was based on the text of Psalm 122, "I was glad when they said unto me: Let us go into the house of the LORD." The first regular service was held on the following Sunday.
The general consensus was as with all such works: some loved it ("Without, within, below, above the eye/ Is filled with unrestrained delight."[3]; some hated it ("...There was an air of Popery about the giled capitals, the heavy arches...They were unfamiliar, un-English.."[4]; while most, once their curiosity was satisfied, didn't think about it one way or another.

The clock tower on the west end of the cathedral
:''Sir Christopher Wren
:''Said, "I am going to dine with some men.''
:''If anyone calls,''
:''Say I am designing St Paul's."''
::A
clerihew by
Edmund Clerihew Bentley
Artists and Craftsmen
The construction and decoration of the Cathedral involved many of the foremost artists and craftsmen in England, these were:
★
Sir James Thornhill - painted the eight monochrome paintings of the life of St Paul that decorate the interior of the dome
[5].
★
Grinling Gibbons - responsible for the woodwork, most notably the choir stalls
[6] & sculpted the pediment of the north transept
[7].
★
Jean Tijou - most of the wrought ironwork, including the gates flanking the high altar
[8].
★
Bernard Smith - designed and built the organ
[9].
★
Caius Gabriel Cibber - sculpted the pediment of the south transept
[7].
★
Francis Bird - sculpted the great west pediment showing the conversion of St Paul
[11], plus the seven large sculptures on the west front
[5].
Description
The cathedral is built of
Portland stone in a late
Renaissance style that is England's sober
Baroque. Its impressive dome was inspired by
St Peter's Basilica in
Rome. It rises 365 feet (108 metres) to the cross at its summit, making it a famous London landmark. Wren achieved a pleasing appearance by building three domes: the tall outer dome is non-structural but impressive to view, the lower inner dome provides an artistically balanced interior, and between the two is a structural cone that supports the apex structure and the outer dome. Wren was said to have been hauled up to the rafters in a basket during the building of its later stages to inspect progress.

Plan
The
nave has three small chapels in the two adjoining
aisles – ''All Souls'' and ''St Dunstan's'' in the north aisle and the ''Chapel of the
Order of St Michael and St George'' in the south aisle. The main space of the cathedral is centred under the Dome; it rises 108.4 metres from the cathedral floor and holds three circular galleries – the internal ''Whispering Gallery'', the external ''Stone Gallery'', and the external ''Golden Gallery''.
The ''
Whispering Gallery'' runs around the interior of the Dome and is 99 feet (30.2 m) above the cathedral floor. It is reached by 259 steps from ground-level. It gets its name because a whisper against its wall at any point is audible to a listener with their ear held to the wall at any other point around the gallery. This works only for whispered speech - normal voiced speech is not focused in this way.
The base of the inner dome is 173 feet (53.4 m) above the floor. The top of the inner dome is about 65 m above the floor, making this the height of the enclosed space.
The
Quire extends to the east of the dome and holds the stalls for the
clergy and the choir and the
organ. To the north and south of the dome are the transepts of the North Choir and the South Choir.
The north-west tower contains 13 bells and the south-west contains four, including Great Paul, cast in 1881, and Great Tom (the hour bell), recast twice, after being moved from the old
Palace of Westminster.
Post-Wren history
This cathedral has survived despite being targeted during
the Blitz - it was struck by bombs on
October 10 1940 and
April 17 1941. On
September 12 1940 a time-delayed bomb that had struck the cathedral was successfully defused and removed by a
Bomb Disposal detachment of
Royal Engineers under the command of Temporary Lieutenant Robert Davies. Had this bomb detonated it would have totally destroyed the Cathedral, as it left a 100 foot crater when it was later remotely detonated in a secure location. As a result of this action Davies was awarded the
George Cross[13]
Memorials
The cathedral has a very substantial crypt holding over 200 memorials and as the
Order of the British Empire Chapel and the Treasury. The cathedral has very few treasures: many have been lost, and in
1810 a major robbery took almost all of the remaining precious artefacts.
Christopher Wren was the first person to be interred, in
1723: on the wall above his tomb in the crypt is written, "Lector, si monumentum requiris, circumspice" (''Reader, if you seek his monument, look around you'').
St Paul's is home to other plaques, carvings, statues,
memorials and tombs of famous
British figures including:
★
General Sir Isaac Brock
★
Sir Edwin Lutyens
★
John Donne, whose funeral effigy, portraying him in a shroud, but not his tomb, survives from Old St Paul's.
★
Lord Kitchener
★
The Duke of Wellington
★
Lord Nelson
★
Henry Moore
★
Sir Winston Churchill
★
T.E. Lawrence, whose
bust faces Nelson's
sarcophagus
★
Sir Alexander Fleming
★
Sir Arthur Sullivan
★
Florence Nightingale
★
J.M.W. Turner
★
Sir Joshua Reynolds.
Most of the memorials commemorate the British military, including several lists of servicemen who died in action, the most recent being the
Gulf War. There are special monuments to
Lord Nelson in the south transept and to the
Duke of Wellington in the north aisle; both are buried here. Also remembered are poets, painters, clergy and residents of the local parish. There are lists of the
Bishops and cathedral Deans for the last thousand years.
The
Apse of the cathedral is home to the American Memorial Chapel. It honours American servicemen and women who died in
World War II, and was dedicated in 1958. It was paid for entirely by donations from British people, and was designed, as a modern exercise in the Wren style, by
Godfrey Allen and
Stephen Dykes Bower.
[14] The roll of honour contains the names of more than 28,000 Americans who gave their lives while on their way to, or stationed in, the United Kingdom during the Second World War. It is in front of the chapel's
altar. The three chapel windows date from 1960. They feature themes of service and sacrifice, while the insignia around the edges represent the American states and the
US armed forces. The limewood panelling incorporates a rocket - a tribute to America's achievements in
space.
[15]
The cathedral has been the site of many famous funerals, including those of
Horatio Nelson, the
Duke of Wellington, Sir
Winston Churchill and
George Mallory
Modern-day
The Royal Family hold most of their important marriages, christenings and funerals at
Westminster Abbey, but St Paul's was used for the marriage of
Charles, Prince of Wales and
Lady Diana Spencer. The religious service for Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee was also celebrated there.

St Paul's from across the Thames, over the top of surrounding postwar construction.
In
2001, Britain's memorial service to honour the victims of the
September 11, 2001 attacks was held at the cathedral, attended by the Royal Family and then-U.S. ambassador William Farish.
Prince Philip spoke, as did Farish, and Farish said in
2004 in ''
The Times'' just before he resigned as ambassador that this service showed the strong relationship between the US and Britain. On
November 1 2005, it held a memorial service for
the July 7 bombings.
The cathedral is open to the public, with a charge for non-worshipping visitors. In
2000, the cathedral began a major
restoration programme, scheduled for completion in
2008, to celebrate the 300th anniversary of its opening. A ceremony to celebrate the anniversary was directed by
Patrick Garland. The restoration programme is expected to cost £40 million, and involves repair and cleaning of the building, and improvement of visitor facilities, such as accessibility for the disabled, and provision of additional educational facilities.
Cultural references
Because of its prominent and recognizable form on the skyline, a view that is
protected from many vantage points, St Paul's is often used in movies as part of an establishing shot to place the viewers in London.
It also features in:
★ ''
The Canterbury Tales'', where it is a favourite location of the Sergeant of Law
★ ''
London Calling'' by Edward Bloor, where it is the setting of one of the most touching scenes in the book
★ ''
Mary Poppins'', where it is the setting of the song by the
Sherman Brothers, "
Feed the Birds".
★ ''
Lawrence of Arabia'', as the venue of Lawrence's funeral.
★ ''
Steamboy'', seen in scenes with the cathedral.
★ ''
101 Dalmatians''
★ ''
Peter Pan''
★
''The War of the Worlds'', by H.G. Wells
★ ''
★ ''
The Bed-Sitting Room'' (1970 film) depicts the post -
nuclear wreckage of the dome lying in the middle of a lake.
★ The cathedral was prominent in all
Thames Television idents from
1968 until
1992, and prominent in its logo until
1997
★ The opening titles of ''
Mr. Bean'' began with a shot of Mr. Bean falling from the sky with St. Paul's in the background.
★ The
1966 ''
Doctor Who'' story ''
The Invasion'', where
Cybermen emerge and walk towards the
Thames outside the cathedral.
★ The
1966 film ''
Georgy Girl'': as Joss and Georgy sail down the Thames, a captain points out the house where Christopher Wren lived whilst the dome was being constructed. The dome appears in the background, covered in scaffolding.
★ The
1971 Hammer Horror film ''
Hands of the Ripper''
★ The Cathedral became the lair of
Giant Black Rats in
James Herberts
1993 graphic novel, ''The City''.
★ The
1994 film ''
The Madness of King George''
★ The
2001 novel ''
Mortal Engines'' by
Philip Reeve, where it houses the super-weapon MEDUSA upon the great
Traction City of
London.
★ ''
From Hell'' - in the graphic novel version by
Alan Moore, the cathedral is seen in the opening panel with an ominous look on a cloudy day.
★ In the
2005 ''
Doctor Who'' story "
The Empty Child", the cathedral during
the Blitz can be seen in numerous background shots.
★ In the
2006 ''
Doctor Who'' story "
Rise of the Cybermen", the cathedral is seen briefly in a background shot as the Doctor and Rose walk through a
parallel universe London.
''Fire Watch'' by
Connie Willis, a Hugo and Nebula winning short story, is set mostly in and around the cathedral during the final months of 1940, when it was targeted in
the Blitz.
The
idiom "''rob Peter to pay Paul''" has a
folk etymology of using the funds of
Westminster Abbey for the cathedral.
There is a
scale model of the cathedral at
LEGOLAND Windsor.
Organ and Organists
Organ
The organ was commissioned in
1694: the current instrument is the third-biggest in Britain with 7,189 pipes and 138 stops, enclosed in an impressive case by
Grinling Gibbons.
Details of the organ from the National Pipe Organ Register
Organists
★ 1530 John Redford
★ 1549 Thomas Giles
★ 1591 Thomas Morley
★ 1622 John Tomkins
★ 1624 Adrian Batten
★ 1638 Aibertus Bryne
★ 1687 Isaac Blackwell
|
★ 1888 George Martin
★ 1916 Charles Macpherson
★ 1927 Stanley Marchant
★ 1936 John Dykes Bower
★ 1968 Christopher Dearnley
★ 1990 John Scott
★ 2004 Malcolm Archer
|
Images
Present day
Historical
References
1. pages 12 to 26, Sir Christopher Wren: The Design of St Paul's Cathedral, Kerry Downes Trefoil Press 1988
2. ''The Worshipful Company of Masons: Company History''
3. Wright, James, The Choire,(London, 1693)
4. Tinniswood, Adrain, His Invention so Furtile: A Life of Christopher Wren, (Oxford Press, London 2001) p.315
5. page 252, Rebuilding St. Paul's after the Great Fire of London, Jane Lang 1956 O.U.P.
6. page 166, Rebuilding St. Paul's after the Great Fire of London, Jane Lang 1956 O.U.P.
7. page 209, Rebuilding St. Paul's after the Great Fire of London, Jane Lang 1956 O.U.P.
8. page 169, Rebuilding St. Paul's after the Great Fire of London, Jane Lang 1956 O.U.P.
9. page 171, Rebuilding St. Paul's after the Great Fire of London, Jane Lang 1956 O.U.P.
10. page 209, Rebuilding St. Paul's after the Great Fire of London, Jane Lang 1956 O.U.P.
11. page 230, Rebuilding St. Paul's after the Great Fire of London, Jane Lang 1956 O.U.P.
12. page 252, Rebuilding St. Paul's after the Great Fire of London, Jane Lang 1956 O.U.P.
13. Gazetted September 30 1940. Davies's George Cross and other medals are on display at the Imperial War Museum, London.
14. Explore St. Paul's
15. St. Paul's Cathedral Floor
See also
★
List of cathedrals in the United Kingdom
★
List of churches and cathedrals of London
★
Paternoster Square
★
Tall buildings in London
★
College of Minor Canons
★
The Light of the World
★
★
★
External links
★
St Paul's Cathedral official website
★
Explore St Paul's Cathedral — online virtual tour including 360° panoramas, narrated slideshows, maps, and full text for the hearing-impaired
★
Wren's various designs
★
The lowest BASE Jump in the world from the Whispering Gallery inside St Paul's Cathedral 1992
★
St. Paul's Cathedral Photo Gallery — 125 photos]
★
St Paul's Cathedral tourist guide
★
Old St Paul's Cathedral by William Benham - eText from
Project Gutenberg
★ S.E. Kelly, editor, 2004. ''Charters of St Paul's, London'' in series Anglo-Saxon Charters'' (Oxford University Press)
[1]
★
The 'Registrum Statutorum..' of St Paul's - collected charters and other documents from the earliest years until the nineteenth century. Published by the cathedral in 1873, Latin and English.
★
Google Local Aerial view of St. Paul's Cathedral
★
Quicktime VR of St Paul's and the Millennium Bridge - British Tours Ltd
★
BBC News account of the bombing
★
Bells of St. Paul's
★
A history of the choristers of St Paul's Cathedral
★
Flickr images tagged St Paul's Cathedral
★
Mystery Worshipper Report at the
Ship of Fools website
★
Central London live webcam showing St Paul's, Westminster and Big Ben
★
360 Panoramas from St Paul's

360° view near the High Altar at St Pauls Cathedral.