By Roy Heale
Once upon the River Danube there were three cities—-Buda on the west bank and Obuda and Pest on the east bank—which were amalgamated into the city of Budapest in 1873 simultaneous with the completion of the Danube’s magnificent Lanchid chain bridge. Today, with over two thousand years of history, this city is one of the most beautiful capitals in Europe and the modern architecture blends with the rich, historic past of centuries old castles, palaces and parliament buildings on both banks of the river. It is often referred to as the Queen of the Danube and it’s easy to feel like royalty as you stroll along the cobbled streets of the Castle District and imagine those who lived here hundreds of years ago. Today, Budapest is a city of almost two million residents offering the gay traveller every modern convenience, a vibrant nightlife and their own unique descriptive word “meleg” created around 1990 as a non-discriminative description for homosexuals.
The city covers an area of two hundred square miles and flowing north to south through the centre of the city is the mighty River Danube. Buda and Óbuda, comprising roughly a third of the total, are situated mainly in the hills to the west, with commercial Pest on the plains to the east. There are three islands – Óbuda Island, Margaret Island and Csepel Island – and nine bridges, two of which carry railway lines. Budapest possesses a rich and fascinating history as well as a vibrant cultural heritage. Recognizing the unique value of its traditions it has managed to maintain its magic and charm, and honestly earns its nickname as the Queen of the Danube. It has also been called the City of Spas, as there are a dozen thermal baths complexes served by over one hundred natural thermal springs and hundreds of underground caves, four of which are open to the public.
Budapest is renowned worldwide for the therapeutic and healing powers of the thermal waters and many tourists come just for a spa vacation. The centrally located Gellert thermal baths and pools are situated on the Buda side of the Szabadsag Bridge and are one of the largest spa complexes and hotels in the city. Here you can enjoy the waters, massages, steam rooms, indoor and outdoor pools, solarium, naturist sunbathing terraces and a cocktail lounge. A day at the spa will be a unique experience and not at all like the local spa at home. Of course the gay community is served by the Magnum Sauna, Sauna 69, and Kiraly Furdo Baths where the thermal springs are not the main attraction but the relaxation is guaranteed. Whichever spas you might choose to visit this will be a highlight of your trip to Budapest.
One of the most enjoyable ways to see the city is a Danube River cruise by night on the Legenda glass bubble enclosed boat with a four-course candlelit dinner and live music. As you glide gently along the Danube you will see the city’s famous monuments festooned with their dramatic, colourful floodlights including the Opera House, the Royal Place, the Parliament Buildings, the Castle District, the Lanchid Bridge, the Freedom Monument and the Palace of Arts— just to name a few of the spectacular sights. This is a magical introduction to the city and will leave you with a list of places to visit during the daylight hours on your vacation. The gourmet dinner and live music will enchant you as the sights along the embankment introduce you to the magic of Budapest.
From Clark Adam Square at the Buda end of the Chain Bridge you can ride the Funicular—opened in 1870 when this tram lift was the only way up the hill to the Castle—which affords a beautiful view of the city while saving a long uphill walk to the Castle District. At the end of this short ride is a charming historic neighbourhood situated on top of a hill overlooking the Danube, Buda and Pest with spectacular views and panoramas of the city below. Here you can easily spend the whole day wandering the cobbled streets and visiting the Royal Place, the old houses and churches or enjoying refreshments at an outdoor cafe. In the summertime there are many festivals which will introduce you to the culture that is Hungary at its most charming. There are two hour walking tours that will guide you through the entire district and its rich history. Some of the best restaurants specialising in local cuisine can be found in this district. Whatever your pleasure a day in the Castle District is a must during any visit to Budapest.
The City Park Varosliget was completed in 1896 for Hungary’s millennium celebrations and is a favorite gathering place for both locals and tourists. This 302 acre park includes many attractions, sculptures, a large pond and historic sites for a full day of entertainment. The park’s main entrance is through Heroes’ Square, one of Hungary’s World Heritage Sites. At the square you can find the Millennium Monument, the Museum of Fine Arts and the Palace of Art, all worthy of a visit. Another centrepiece of Varosliget is the rather unusual Vajdahunyad Castle originally built of cardboard and wood in honour of the Millennium. The structure was built in a wide variety of architectural styles ranging from Romanesque to Gothic, intended to represent each century since the arrival of the Magyars. Due to its immense popularity it was later rebuilt in brick and today it is a major attraction of City Park. The large pond is a great place to rent a row boat in the summer or during winter enjoy the largest outdoor skating rink in Central Europe. Home to the Budapest Grand Circus, the Botanical Gardens, the Municipal Zoological Garden, and several Museums the Varosliget is truly a unique way to spend a day in a city parkland full of diverse entertainment.
Shopping in Budapest has changed dramatically since the days of communism and now the city boasts a mixture of traditional Hungarian shops blended with today’s trendy boutiques and department stores. Antique stores abound and arts and crafts are a Hungarian tradition. The Central Market Hall is a place where anything and everything Hungarian can be found from foods to wines and liqueurs and local crafts. Here you can also enjoy the challenge of a cooking competition called the “Wooden Spoon Grand Prix”. Anyone can compete in the challenge to make real Hungarian Goulash—a soup not a stew—and cottage-cheese pancakes under the direction of an expert chef. These daily contests are organised by Bridge Tours and held at the Fakanal(Wooden Spoon) Restaurant in the Central Market Hall. There are also special samplings of Hungarian culinary specialties and wines to prepare you for your dining experiences during your vacation. This is the perfect introduction to all the Hungarian specialties which Budapest offers in abundance and some fun for those who like to spend time in the kitchen.
The gay and lesbian community in Budapest is well established with over twenty bars, clubs, restaurants, cafes, shops and accommodations. The official tourism website of Budapest has a section dedicated to the GLBT community and updates the information on a regular basis. One of the most popular bars with locals and tourists is the Action Bar and it is a great place to start your evening or night on the town especially if you enjoy some male dancers as part of your entertainment. It is a little hard to locate but once you are there you will find helpful and friendly staff who will assist you with local information. Late night parties at the Alterego Bar and Lounge are popular with locals and tourists and the partying continues well into the night on weekends.
When searching for accommodations in Budapest the gay choices are limited and found mostly in Pest. Guest Residences by K.M. Saga offer eight rooms and suites with period decorations in a 19th Century Art Nouveau Building with modern amenities. Connection Guesthouse offers seven rooms in a great central location and the facilities include free internet, lounge and bar plus helpful staff who can help you discover the gay scene. There are also several new boutique hotels in Budapest who pride themselves on being gay-friendly. The Lanchid 19 Hotel is located close to the Chain Bridge and offers forty-eight beautifully designed rooms and suites at affordable rates, many of which have beautiful views of the city and Danube. Wherever you stay in Budapest you will certainly find a perfect combination of historical architecture and modern conveniences.
In the twenty years since the end of communist domination of Hungary, Budapest has emerged as a modern city with an historic past and has earned the reputation as the Gay Capital of Central Europe. With the advent of discount airlines in Europe it has become a popular weekend get-way for gay travelers throughout Europe and during the summer months it is becoming a trendy new gay destination for visitors from around the world.
Anytime of the year is perfect for a visit to the Queen of the Danube and enjoy the gay-friendly welcome which awaits you in Budapest.