Visiting castles in Portugal
Most large towns in Portugal with a castle have well marked routes with yellow or white signs pointing you to the “Castelo.” A rule of thumb is that the castle is always up, that is on a hill or above a town. And, look near the oldest portion of a town for the castle. In a village, the castle is usually quite visible.
Sometimes, you will find a locked gate. Most monuments are closed on Monday, but open the rest of the week. Few charge an entrance fee, and if they do it is usually insignificant. In remote areas the key for the castle may be at a near by house or cafe. If you see a sign for “chave” or key, look for a house number.
Take care on stairs, walls and in towers. These medieval relics were not built with modern safety concerns, and stone stairs can slope, tower and walls can be rough, and insides of keeps can be very dark. A flashlight and good shoes can be of great comfort. Fortunately, most Portuguese castles are not landscaped or over-restored; they simply exist in a variety of states of ruin, leaving the visitor with a sense of place and history.
Granite Mountains and the Lines of the Tejo
The Centro Region of Portugal along the western frontier with Spain is the heart of ancient castle country, with every major town and village having some form of fortification. The area is also the most mountainous of the country, with the Serra de Estrela range reaching to almost 6,000 feet above sea level. Secondary roads can be very windy and often uphill, and some are closed by snow in the winter.
Hiking is found in the Serra de Estrela and Serra de Malcata natural parks. The Beiras end at the Tejo River, which became the border between the new kingdom of Portugal and the Moorish lands to the south in 1147. Here, a line of castles rose under religious order designed to defend the newborn nation, while allowing a base to launch the Reconquest. The ring and line of castles, granite landscapes, and friendly folk make it a wonderful off-the-beaten-path adventure.
Where to stay when visiting Portugal’s castle country
Guarda – The coldest city in Portugal has good lodging at the centrally located Hotel de Turismo. The city retains much of its old fortifications, and its Gothic cathedral is considered one of the finest in the country. The town’s old quarter is quite picturesque.
Almeida – The star of the 18th century Vauban school of fortification, Almeida is a must see for its perfect star shaped walls. The Pousadas de Portugal has converted many monuments into fine hotels that celebrate rather than destroy the buildings that they inhabit. Almeida’s Pousada, built in the old fort, is a comfortable way to enjoy this colorful frontier town. It is also a good point to explore the many castles that made this part of the country so inhospitable to invaliding armies.
Castelo Branco – True to its name, the old Templar’s Castle still watches over this regional capital. The famed gardens of the Bishop’s Palace have amazing statues of the kings of Portugal, with the three “Spanish Kings” half the size of their Portuguese counterparts.
Monsanto – This village in the clouds is a window to the past, and it commands a view of all below. Build at the foot of the castle and in the historic village walls, the Pousada of Monsanto is an experience in itself. And this is a great base to explore the surrounding countryside of the Beira Baixa.
For more information on visiting Centro de Portugal, go to: www.visitcentro.com.
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