Our faces were lit by candles, we sat around the table in the dark rainforest talking quietly and listening to the loud, exotic night calls of the frogs of Colombia. “Pinch me”, I said, “so I know it is real”.
Our hiking group of seven from five countries was headed into the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains in northern Colombia on a trek to visit the 10th century pre-Columbian archeological site name Ciudad Perdida or The Lost City. Along the way, we would often see, but not disturb the indigenous Kogi.
Signs of all modern civilisation ended when started to walk. There were no stores, no roads or cars. Electricity has not reached this area, and cell phones were useless. It was very quiet.
Our bodies relaxed into the pace of the mountains and we wove ourselves up and down the paths for five days like a quiet thread.
We followed an ancient path that had been walked by the Tairona civilisation for centuries and was now used by their ancestors, the Kogi.
At night we stopped at camps and slept outdoors sheltered by open structures with tin roofs. We crawled into hammocks covered by mosquito nets several nights and netted bunks on the other nights. Our food, carried to the camps by burros, was cooked by our guides on small adobe ovens. Large servings of rice, beans, meats, and fruit filled us after long days of walking. The hike was strenuous, but we noticed our lives had become more simple.
Following the mighty Barioche River, we hiked up and down through the mountains, on trails that took us through rainforests of enormous aged trees, open arid stretches with giant cactuses, across rivers and along rocky ledges. Around every corner was a new vista, and after a long, sweaty climb, our guides would greet us with fresh cut watermelon.
We passed many Kogi families on the path and walked past their villages. Life for the Kogi has changed little through time. Their homes are round thatched huts, they eat from the land and weave cloth for their white tunics. The rubber boots worn by some, are the only sign of the present. Although curious, our group chose to maintain a quiet respect for the Kogi.
As we rested by a river, a Kogi woman with eight small children and four piglets in tow walked down to the river. She helped the children across the water,and pushed the piglets in the rushing water.She gathered up her brood and they walked up the hill on the other side, without casting us a glance.
On the third day, we climbed the final 1,200 stone steps to the Lost City. As we reached the top, the path opened onto 360 round terraces that once held the homes of the Tairona. We looked out high over the clouded jungle vistas in all directions. We visited with some Colombian soldiers who are flown in for three month stints. They guard the hidden treasures of the site, as the proud Tairona families are said to have buried themselves with their gold to avoid capture by the invading Spanish.
As we stood on the terraces in Ciudad Perdida, we breathed in the air of a sacred, silent place and pointed our hiking boots down, for the long walk back to other realities. I was bringing back with me a quiet but clear message from the Kogi, who taught me by their way of life, to live more simply, and to care for our earth – for the future.
Trip Planning
How to get there: Fly to Cartegena or Bogota, Colombia and travel to Santa Marta. Book your hiking tour with a company in Santa Marta.
Hiking Tours: Magic Tours, Turcol, Sierra Tours, and Expo Tours all offer the 5 day hike for $255.00 (at the time this was written).
Packing: It is important to pack light, and include mosquito repellant, water purifying drops and good walking shoes.
Reading: The Lonely Planet Guide to Colombia.