Peace and Tranquillity
The rain was torrential– the monsoon was in full spate. The twisitng turning mountain road, randomly strewn with rocks and boulders from the last mudslide, resembled a mighty ochre coloured river careering downhill in a frenzy of foam and flood. The barely distinguishable road clung precariously to the cliff edge hundreds of feet above the mighty River Ganges, fast flowing, debris laden and swollen with rains from the high Himalayan Mountains. Where was the peace and tranquillity of the great river I had always dreamt about? It wasn’t the crystal clear waters of my dreams!
Digger drivers clearing the wreckage had clearly given up: the power of the tempest forcing them, even in their huge machines, to take cover under the vast buckets. Yet this fury of Mother Nature didn’t stop the speed of the vehicles as they wove their way up and down the alpine road narrowly missing the debris. Chicken is the name of the game in India…..Big lorry. Little car. Who gives way? NOT necessarily the car! My driver wondered why I never gasped in fear or sheer panic as a huge lorry, horn blaring, lights flashing bore down on us as we literally clung to the cliff edge as he blasted through – it felt rather like home roads I told him! Driving was very similar – when we get our flash floods – just put the foot down on the gas, change down a gear and shut your eyes – ok peek a little!
Finally we arrived at my destination. The Glass House on the Ganges. A former home of the Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal set in a gorgeous garden running down to the banks of the Holy River Ganges. It’s located on a bend of the River considered to be most auspicious places on the river.
The hotel is very simple – you feel as if you are living in an age gone by – afternoon ‘tiffin’ on the veranda, breakfast listening to the morning chorus. Don’t expect TV in the bedrooms – although there is one in the comfy lounge (where all off duty staff had congregated to watch cricket………. It’s a national obsession). My bed was rather hard and the decor a little faded but saying that, it was comfortable enough, and a change from the stereotypical hotels that are totally unremarkable and tasteless – anyway – I wasn’t here for the hotel and marvellous facilities, but for the nature.
It’s a place to come to stay to recharge the batteries – when you finally get there. Like many places in India it’s not easy to reach and I had a real trek. After arriving in India– due to flight arrival times – I stayed overnight in Delhi before catching the dawn Shatabdi Express train to Haridwar for the first part of my journey: days 3 and 4 of the Lord Shiva festival. Then we drove the 1 ½ hrs to the hotel north of Rishikesh (remember the ‘Beatles’ and their transcendental meditation period?).
Actually the trip took me 7 hrs. 1.2 million people choose the same day as me to move in and out of Rishikesh. We progressed 2 kms in 5 hours! A two lane road, the bund over the Ganges flood plain, became a six lane highway! My driver and I were stuck in the middle. We had to switch the a/c off as the diesel was running low – tempers were running high – as riot police, in full protective gear, backed up by Army personnel wallop anyone who looked remotely hostile! Now, I’m not a person who can sit still for long, but I remember literally shutting down. We had the windows shut – due to the dust and fumes, no a/c -so the temperature inside the car just rose and rose. Thank god for my obsession about drinking copious amounts of water – I needed all my water to keep from dehydrating in the heat of the car, as my driver refused to let me out of the car. So I could do nothing and just sat there watching the milling throng of cars, lorries and scooters surround me – and deciding where I would run if a full blown riot erupted!!!! Still, I survived and live to tell the tale!
I went to the Glass House to relax, to walk the beautiful mountain paths and enjoy the peace and tranquillity of the area after the pulsating few days at the Shiva festival – and, seriously, did I need it after the journey!
I wasn’t disillusioned. I was late visiting and the full glory of the flowers in the gardens and mountainside had passed – only a few blooming rambling roses still clung tenaciously to their rain laden braches, no photo opportunities either with the stunningly blue Iris or gorgeous camellias, fading in the monsoon deluge. The heavy rains were turning the already velvet countryside deeper shades of green.
How many shades can there be I wonder? Intense rich deep green, soft muted green, green tinged with red, brown, orange, vibrant yellow green – how I wished my art class were here- what a field day we would have had mixing our palettes – we wouldn’t have to worry about using wet on wet techniques as the steam rising from the river would have certainly made our task easier – the high humidity drenched everything in a misty glaze! Drying the paint though would have been the problem!
First thing in the morning I walked down to the rocky shore of the river. The Ganges was running high – a missed foothold and all would have been lost – as once caught in the current, the seething flood, would show no mercy. Yet here I found perfect peace. Only the sound of the river broke the silence. The roar of the water was not invasive: its timbre was exactly right, as only nature can capture a perfect sound. I sat meditating on a lonely outcrop with the murky waters swirling inches away. The early morning mist drifted by, a lonely bird cried as it soared in the languorous breeze, puff ball clouds danced and I felt in heaven!
Later I walked, umbrella held high, as the monsoon brought new life around me. I wander mountain paths listening to the never ending noise of the wildlife – I saw few birds or even an inquisitive squirrel as the force of the monsoon made the animals and birds take shelter – but the cacophony of chatter never ceased! No matter! You could feel the vitality of the area and even in the pouring rain enjoy such beauty!
Later I visited the hotels simple spa where Keralan trained therapists offer relaxing treatments – I had a lower back massage to ease the stiffness from long drives and felt totally chilled out. If there’re enough guests they do Yoga and meditation classes. You don’t need to have the least idea about Yoga or mediation; all you need is the desire to unwind and relax and to enjoy nature in its pristine beauty. Seated on the banks of the Ganges I can imagine no better place to be!
I didn’t have enough time to take a guided walking tour of the area, but there are local guides who will take you on short treks – about 2 hours -long enough especially when the humidity is high. If you want a little adventure when the river is more peaceful then river rafting can be arranged roughly from October – June – as well as trips to visit the famous city of Rishikesh where the Beatles group spent time in Transcendental Meditation and ‘other pursuits’! Finally for the really adventurous a drive of 10 hours followed by a 18km walk will bring you to the source of the River Ganges – a trip I will I hope do!.
Sadly I had to leave the peace and return back to Delhi. The return trip was far easier – drive back to Haridwar, wait for an hour or so for the train as I had insisted on leaving early – in case of a traffic jam! Then the mighty express back to the hectic city of Delhi. One thing is for sure – I will return – to the lovely little hotel and the serene waters of the Holy River.
FACT BOX
Flights: Emirates : www.emirates.com/
Tour Operator: Indus Discoveries: www.indusdiscoveries.com
Indian Tourist Office: www.incredibleindia.org/