Three things I learned in Melbourne – they love their footie (Australian Rules Football), they’re stylish, arty and cool, and the citizens are devoted to coffee. As I joined the locals in their multiple daily worship of coffee amongst the citizens of Melbourne, I also discovered their unique downtown.
In most cities, an alley is the area for garbage, storage and largely ignored. But in downtown Melbourne, the laneways are precious real estate that have become home to a unique cross-section of local boutiques, cafes, bars, and sanctioned grafitti-areas, making these areas a lively place to go from morning until late night.
I went on a walking tour of downtown with Hidden Secrets Tours. The guide slowly wove us through the Lanes and Arcades tour, pointing out historical areas, trendy boutiques, vintage clothing stores, artist ateliers and plenty of options for a meal, cocktails or a great cup of coffee. In three hours, I learned a lot, noted down some stores that needed a second visit and got to meet some fellow travellers.
Seeing how much cafe culture was permeating these downtown laneways, instead of garbage bins, was a welcome sight. The ability to sit, chat and people-watch is highly alluring to me, and seeing a downtown area that celebrates this triple-threat is nirvana. Spend time shopping in the Royal Arcade – vintage shop Hello Gorgeous! and delectable Koko + Black Chocolate cafe are worthy places to stop.
One of my favourite meals was had at MoVida, a tapas bar that was a heady mix of tasty Spanish cuisine and a lively atmosphere. From the tasty Gambas con Romesco and Truffa to the Pupo and Queso Manchego, I was began to share with my fellow diners, who were just as happy to share too. Even the unbelievable watermelon Gazpacho was shared despite its addictive flavours.
Outside the restaurant, Hosier laneway was a showcase for local grafitti artists. I soon realized the alleys are sanctioned grafitti areas, and are ever-changing galleries for local artists including Ghost Patrol, whose distinctive character I began to recognize and see repeatedly. And for those who are looking for a late night drinking spot in this ‘hood, Madame Brussels or Double Happiness offer up unique cocktails.
Visitors to Melbourne will no doubt find themselves at Federation Square, one of the main central aras of downtown, so head behind in the buildings to the laneways to discover 180 small streets of cool culture.