Brunton Boatyard, Fort Cochin, Kerala, India
After a long haul flight to Kerala for your holiday – or like me after a protracted flight from Jodhpur to Delhi then to Chennai and finally to Kochi ( I have yet to meet anyone in Kerala who calls Cochin by its new name of Kochi!) – the one thing you need is a decent night’s sleep and a good meal. I arrived, after couple of excellent Jet Airways internal flights, late afternoon at Cochin airport where the hotel’s car was waiting to whisk me away. The new (relatively speaking) Cochin airport is one of the easiest I’ve found in India for getting in and out of – being small, even I can’t get lost – and my baggage was delivered in double quick time!
When you arrive at an hotel (especially when tired and most probably teasy) -first impressions count. But don’t worry Brunton Boatyard comes up trumps. An elegant ageless Colonial mansion, surrounding neatly manicured lawns, a glory of tumbling flowers and swathed by ancient trees, bringing welcome shade greets the weary traveller….. a sense of timelessness overcomes you at the check in and you fancy you can hear snippets of conversation – prosperous merchants haggling over a new deal or toasting the successful conclusion of a voyage. Others are playing billiards; squandering huge sums on the results of a game – however, they could afford it, as Cochin was a rich and vibrant trading port where fortunes were made – and lost. Teacups clink – but more than likely there’re drinking a stiff G’nT or two! Woken from your moment of reverie you drift off to your room with a view.
For me, my first impression, many years ago, when I was wandering the area, was of a property at the height of disrepair, tumbled down and decaying. The building and surrounding grounds were once a flourishing ship building business with a reputation for excellence and originally owned by a Mr George Brunton. With the decline of the British Raj and the protests of British boat builders that India was taking their jobs away (sounds familiar? I believe call centres are to blame today!), the yard declined and eventually became derelict.
Years later, the leading Keralan hotel group cghearth bought the property and transformed it into a Colonial retreat with echoes of a bygone era in every corner. Glorious four poster beds, terracotta floors, cane furniture, antique spice chests and wonderful old paintings and portraits of local notables grace the walls. Even the modern bathrooms have a colonial feel. All rooms and suites have sea views, with a terrace or balcony where you can sit and watch the river life go by: local ferries ply to and fro, fishing boats bob in the wake of super cruise liners or small boys paddling homemade canoes. The pool is perched on the water’s edge and perfect for a dip after a hard days sightseeing. We had a great time when a leviathan cruise liner steamed by; bringing all the other river traffic to a stop. All the hotel staff and guests piled down to the jetty snapping away like mad; waving and shouting to the passengers only a few metres away.
I also took an evening sunset cruise around the harbour area – no sun as the monsoon clouds were looming dark and heavy – but it was fun chatting to other guests and trying to imagine what the sights, sounds and smells of old Cochin would have been like.
Food here is very good – especially the specialist venue – ‘The History Restaurant’ – reflecting the rich culinary melange of Kerala brought by its Dutch, Arab, Portuguese, British and Jewish traders. Breakfast ground to a halt as a huge tug steamed past and all the guest ran for their cameras….when I arrived back my omelette, appeared in seconds – just perfect. I gather staff are used to the sudden exodus when some interesting ship passes by! On a more domestic note, after going on a sunset cruise, from the hotels own jetty, watch the chef demonstrate traditional Keralan cuisine. Ask at reception for details as venue depends upon the number of guests attending.
The small Ayurvedic centre is a great place to visit to unwind and relax with authentic treatments. Try a head and shoulders massage after flying in and the stress and tension will simply disappear!
It’s also a very child friendly hotel – lots of open space, a great pool and not to far to traipse them around all the ‘must see’ places. They will be fascinated by the Chinese Fishing Nets and enjoy the boats cruise around the harbour – especially if a super tanker comes in! I stay here when I visit Kerala usually for the first couple of nights to unwind and get used to the different pace of life. It’s also a great place for the last nigth before a flight out. Although this time I stayed at Chittor Palace – but that’s another story!
Key Hotel facts:
18 rooms and 4 suites – all a/c with fans
All rooms sea facing with modern en suite bathrooms
All rooms terrace or balcony
Mini Bar and safe
Riverside Swimming pool
Ayurvedic centre
Gift shop
3 restaurants – History, Armoury (cocktail lounge and all day coffee shop) and Terrace (closed off season)
Tea Lounge
Billiard table
Landry, car hire, boat hire, currency exchange, wi-fi in reception
Why I like it
© Perfect riverside position to watch the life of the river go by
© A haven to relax in after a hot day’s sightseeing in cool colonial splendour
© Well trained and incredibly nice staff
© Interesting food – especially the ‘Heritage food’ menu
© Delightful small authentic Ayurvedic centre to have a massage or steam bath
© Next door to local ferries – ideal for jumping on and off and exploring the Cochin waterways – but rooms close to the ferry can be noisy at times
© Almost next door to the Chinese Fishing Nets and colourful local market
© Walking distance of most major sites in Cochin
Key Places to visit in Cochin
© Chinese Fishing Nets – an intriguing relic left behind by Chinese traders
© Vasco Da Gama’s home – where he first stayed in Cochin
© Matancherry Palace – old palace of the Hindu King
© Parade Ground – old military parade ground now surrounded by fine old houses
© The Dutch Cemetery – consecrated in 1724
© St. Francis Church – considered India’s oldest church. In 1524 Vasca Da Gama was buried here, but his remains returned to Portugal 14 years later
© Santa Cruz Basilica – built by the Portuguese and elevated to cathedral status it was destroyed by the British rebuilt in 1887
© Kathakali dance performance – must see this energetic dance art form and go early to watch the dancers apply the intricate makeup
© Sunset cruise – nothing beats a Keralan sunset chugging along the waterways – even good in the monsoon!
© Shopping. Far too many places to mention – 50m from hotel is a bustling market. Visit the fish markets for real local interaction. Wandering is the best – streets with shops brimming over with everything from antique treasures to cheap and cheerful tourists gifts -remember always ensure if buying antiques you have a valid export licence. The local traders have a great ‘chat up line’ ‘ Please come into my small shop. It’s a Palace inside’ – you respond with a polite – ‘No thanks’ – they reply ‘Oh madam you are breaking my heart’! Do bargain………
Contact details:
Brunton Boatyard
www.cghearth.com/brunton_boatyard/index.htm
To get there- International
Emirates fly direct to Cochin in Kerala
To get there – Internal
Tour Operator