“We bones that are here are waiting for yours,” warns the inscription carved into the stone lintel above the entrance to the Chapel of Bones in Evora, Portugal. Undeterred, I cross the threshold and wait for my eyes to adjust to the gloom. Inside the chapel, I am surrounded by evidence of human mortality; every wall and column is crammed with the knobbly ends of femurs interspersed with rows of skulls and lengths of arm bones, all painstakingly arranged into patterns.
Even the vaulted ceilings are studded with rows of craniums and the traditional pictures of podgy cherubs have largely been replaced by paintings of gaunt skulls. I shiver, unsure if it’s because of the chilly air or the macabre decor. Venturing further into the chapel, I spot something dangling from the ceiling. Surely it’s not… but, yes, high above me, an entire dessicated body is hanging from its neck, head flopped forwards onto its collarbone. And there, behind it, hangs a smaller skeleton: a child.
The Franciscan monks who conceived this project certainly knew how to drive a message home. With the aim of provoking visitors into contemplating the transitory nature of human life, they gathered up the bones of over 5000 dead from the town graves and used them to build this chapel next to the church of St. Francis. Five centuries later, the eerie atmosphere provides modern visitors with a grim reminder that despite medical and technological advances, there’s just no escaping death, no matter how rich or important you may be.
It’s a relief to step outside into the sunshine even though it feels like it’s stabbing my eyes. Once they’ve readjusted to the light, it’s time to take a wander through the whitewashed medieval backstreets and be astounded by the range of things that can be made from cork. Who’d have thought you could get a cork umbrella?
The tourist shops do well here from the numerous tour buses that make a point of calling in at Evora. They come because there’s more to this city than a gruesome collection of bones. A surprisingly small but well-preserved Roman temple dating back to the 2nd century AD stands near the 12th century Gothic cathedral and the Evora museum, which is housed in the palace of the former archbishop. This is the place to visit if you’re interested in Flemish and Portuguese religious paintings from the 15th and 16th centuries.
If, like me, you’d rather spend your time looking at more contemporary art, go to the Two Heads Chicken Gallery at Largo de Sao Miguel. The sculptures on display are often deceptively lifelike, sometimes downright weird and always full of emotion.
For a cheap, organic vegetarian lunch in shady gardens, you could do worse than to try the little place around the corner from the gallery. Look out for a colourful chalkboard on the gates telling you what’s on the menu for the day and be prepared to go inside to order your food.
For something a bit more upmarket while atmospheric in a different way, there are some appealing-looking outdoor restaurants in the pedestrian street running alongside the Silver Water Aqueduct. Walk off lunch by wandering along this medieval waterway and marvelling at the impossibly narrow houses that have been built into its arches.
If you’re not on a coach tour of Portugal that includes a stop at Evora, it’s easy enough to get to from Lisbon; several buses a day make the 131km journey. Evora is well worth an overnight stay and has the whole spectrum of accommodation to suit all tastes and budgets.
For more information, see the tourist information website or try the Trip Atlas Trip Builder to get help arranging a trip to Portugal.