Quebec City: culture inside and out
Our intrepid little group set out daily from Château Bonne Entente in suburban St Foye to explore the environs of Québec City. These comfortable touristic forays were a marked contrast to the lives of 17th C. coureur de bois (“woodland runners”) who plied the North American fur trade from struggling New France.
But that was then; this is now. Canadians, and especially Québecers, embrace the winter season that used to test one’s survival instincts. In QC a joie de vivre is everywhere, indoors and out.
One recently imported tradition (from Sweden) is the popular winter Ice Hotel / Hôtel de Glace (http://www.hoteldeglace-canada.com/), a structure made entirely of snow and ice. Each December it rises from local snow plus ice ‘imported’ from Montréal, and at the end of March is melted down. On land formerly occupied by the zoo, it provides a unique experience for those brave enough to sleep under fur blankets at an indoor temperature of -5C / 23F. 4,000 people do it each year.
A different adventure awaits visitors to the Museum of Civilization / Musée de la Civilisation (http://www.mcq.org/index_fr.php) at the exact spot where French colonists landed in the 17th century. Permanent exhibits and blockbuster shows such as last year’s ROME are the draw. Kids love it.
Cold weather touring is hungry work, so we stepped into Le Petit Cochon Dingue at 24 Boulevard Champlain for an inexpensive lunch of traditional tortière (meat pie).
A funny thing happens when walking from place to place in Québec City: it sometimes snows – with an accumulation of over 3 metres / 10 feet annually. And it’s beautiful.
Evenings are for re-energizing, recounting the day and trying new foods.
PHOTOS
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1) The annual Ice Hotel is a ‘hands on’ piece of architecture. Each year’s design is slightly different, with 36 rooms and suites accommodating 88 guests.
2) The lobby ceiling of the Ice Hotel is 5.4m / 19 ft high, complete with ice carvings and chandelier.
3) The Museum of Civilization sits in the heart of old Québec.
4) Tortière and salad make a hearty lunch. And if you can order in French you’ll get an extra smile at Le Petit Cochon Dingue.(www.cochondingue.com)
5) Place d’Armes glistens after a fresh snowfall.
6) Cosmos Restaurant (www.lecosmos.com) is popular with locals and statues alike. It was stage One of our moveable feast one evening.
7) A plate of crabcakes, grilled asparagus and arugula salad counters the blustery weather outside double-glazed windows at Le 47th Parallèle Restaurant (www.le47.com)
8) Steaks are specially dried to seal the natural sugars when cooked at high heat in the ovens of La Bête Bar-Steakhouse (www.labete.ca).
9) Lights out at day’s end. La Bête Bar-Steakhouse.
Please note: Story and photos copyright © Gary Crallé 2012. Not for commercial reproduction without written consent.
Office du tourisme de Québec / Québec City Tourism
835 avenue Wilfrid-Laurier,
Québec, QC G1R 2L3
TEL 1-877-783-1608 or 418-641-6290
FAX 418-522-0830
http://www.quebecregion.com/en