Although I only visited for five days, my first impression of Oman was of its astonishing beauty. Obviously I only saw a snapshot of the country but was still amazed by the diversity of the landscape: sun drenched shores to rocky mountains, lush oasis and parched land, all within an hour or so drive of the capital Muscat and my main base at the Shangri-La resort just outside of town.
On the coast, you’re spoilt for choice as the scenery is amazing – stunning golden sands, crystal clear turquoise seas and soaring wind etched cliffs – contorted by time into surreal shapes. For the Robinson Crusoe inside of you delightful ‘desert’ islands are hidden in secret bays – ideal for scuba diving or simply relaxing.
In the cool of the dawn, take a boat to go Whale and Dolphin spotting – this is a ‘must do’. Dolphins frolic in the balmy waters in vast numbers: barely touching the water, they skim the surface pirouetting like prima ballerinas – posing for the ‘paparazzi’! Whales are often seen serenely gliding through the clears waters – oblivious to the rapturous cries from the enchanted onlookers.
The majority of hotels, fringing the shore, have dive clubs with fully qualified PADI instructors who can organise a diving course to gain internationally recognised certificates, or, for more experienced divers, go wreck diving.
Oman has tough pollution laws. The waters are incredibly clear and clean and, as far as I could see, on my trips offshore full of sea life. To help protect the limited local resources all new hotels are obliged to recycle waste waters (watering flowers/lawns etc) and, many have their own desalination plants.
One brilliant idea for a holiday in Oman is to charter a Turkish gullet or perhaps a sleek 60’ catamaran and spend time diving, swimming, relaxing and, of course eating. All the charter yacht owners I met encouraged guests to fish for their supper– failing that they stop local fishermen and buy their wonderful sardines to grill on the BBQ. Hiring time can be anything from a morning to as long as you like. If you’re a budding or qualified sailor the Captains always welcome assistance.
I only stayed around Muscat and didn’t venture out on this trip into the deep desert expanse. However a night under the stars can be arranged from most hotels or you can do a real desert safari to experience the traditional Bedouin lifestyle.
I took a day’s 4×4 trip off road trip to visit the mountains close to Muscat – Jabal Shams. The scenery was spectacular with deep gorges slashing and gouging their way through the mountains; rearing perpendicular and virtually touching the sky. We tortuously climbed one mountain, only to descend into a valley before starting the next convoluted ascent. Some of the hairpin bends were so tight I swear our wheels jutted out over the edge! I held my breath…….. Mahmood, my driver, had done this journey more times than he could remember and was constantly laughing at me as I ‘hit’ the brake on more than one occasion. If you’re into hiking then be prepared for some testing and exhilarating walking.
Unexpected oasis bring life to the arid rocky landscape. We stopped to stretch our legs in a small village – the men, curious to see a lone woman were soon laughing and joking with me, wondering how on earth my husband let me travel on my own…..the women, more shy, soon mellowed and joined in the friendly banter. Cups of tea and sweetmeats appeared from nowhere and we all relaxed beneath the shade of the palms. (The ladies withdrew to a polite distance leaving me with their men folk – but still close enough to call out comments when they disagreed with them!)
After a fond farewell we continued our journey to the summit for the spectacular views of the mountains and gorges spreading below us as far as the eye could see. Later we started our descent, and stopped under the palms for a picnic – within seconds we were surrounded by a very polite herd of goats waiting patiently for leftovers. They were so placid and gently bleated their thanks as we fed them! As we left they disappeared as quickly as they’d appeared, skipping and scampering up the precipitous rocky slopes.
In the rainy season the road becomes impassable as flash floods bring chaos. Many small hamlets fringing the wadi (dry river bed) have protective stone walls to try and stop the savage torrents destroying their homes. One thing that struck me – miles from civilisation- were the rubbish bins, all neatly lined up waiting for collection from the municipal garbage van. Somehow they seemed bizarre way out in the back of beyond.
Muscat, the capital is full of history and has many delightful museums and Mosques including the vast and beautiful Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. It’s worth taking a guided tour of the city to get a feel of this ancient city. All around castles and fortresses dot the landscape. A short drive from Muscat, and well worth a visit, is the charming Nakhl Castle, majestically perched atop a 200 metre hillock with stunning views of the surrounding palm groves. It’s been sensitively restored and you can feel the history around every corner.
From my brief stay I found the area around Muscat to be an ideal base for a perfect taster holiday. Oman is a great place for outdoor holidays – swimming, diving, yachting, off road, wadi bashing, adventure trips to the inland areas – the list is endless.
I never felt uncomfortable or concerned travelling on my own, with only a driver/guide as a companion. I was struck by the kindness of the people – always a smile, and keen to talk about their country. Oman is a moderate Islamic county with an ancient and eclectic history; it’s a calm oasis – not frenetic like its neighbour Dubai. It’s a place to chill out and to unwind totally.
Fact Box:
Emirates: www.emirates.com/
Oman Tourism:
www.omantourism.gov.om/wps/portal/tourism
Beach Resort:
The Shangri-La: www.shangri-la.com
Yacht charter:
Oman charter: www.omancharter.com
Ocean Blue Charter: www.oceanblueoman.com
Tour Operators:
Indus Tours & Travel: www.industours.co.uk
Desert Thunder Travel & Tourism: www.desertthunder.com