I flew out of Delhi heading up to northern India, just over an hour away by air. The lush wilderness, rushing rivers, and mountainous terrain were clearly visible from my window seat. Upon landing in the capital city of Srinigar, I was about to be welcomed to the state of Jammu and Kashmir, a region with a recent history of warfare troubles and turmoil.
Srinigar is a bustling city of around two million people, a relatively small size in comparison to many other India cities. Its location at an elevation of approximately 560m provides for a fairly moderate temperature throughout the year. I booked into one of the many infamous house boats located on the mystical Dal Lake. A paddled shikara brings each guest to their designated lodging facilities, pushing aside water lilies, lotus flowers, and other water-based plant life that basically constitutes a mixture of matted vegetation and earth. Each houseboat has a designated shikara that transports you anywhere you want around the lake, picking up here and there along the way, somewhat reminiscent of a more natural Venice setting.
I arrived in the evening, so I decided to go for a short stroll and grab a quick snack back on the mainland before calling it an evening. The darkness fell quickly on the basin area, now aglow with the individual light bulbs at the homes and shops of the locals. Music pulsated and the aroma of Kashmiri cuisine drew me in to find some dinner. Typical dishes are heavy on meats and spices, but I chose a vegetable medley over rice with a locally prepared juice beverage, before catching my shikara back into the stillness of the lake with only the soothing sounds of paddling all around.
While enjoying my morning kawa on the deck, I watched as a floating marketplace went back and forth offering pretty much anything one would need, from fresh fruits and vegetables to household products and pharmaceuticals. Kawa is a traditional green tea prepared with saffron, almond slivers, and various spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, sugar, and chai leaves. After a nourishing breakfast I chose to rent a bike and explore some of the environs on two wheels. While many of the roads are somewhat paved, there are just as many lined with potholes. The main through fares are a bit difficult to maneuver at first, but I quickly learned to not pay attention to what was behind me.
Once outside the main core boundaries of the city the secondary roads around the shorelines of Dal and Nagin, were relatively easy to navigate. Nagin Lake, though sometimes referred to as a separate lake, is actually part of Dal Lake, linked through a causeway which permits only cyclists and walkers to enter the lake precincts. I was able to cycle the entire 15 km circumference in just around three leisurely hours. The roads were basically two lanes and used mostly by the local residents scattered throughout the valley. Many of the town folk had offered to take me around town or to go with them to see their boats, which I graciously accepted and spent the day discovering temples, monuments, and the local way of life. As darkness set I went to bed for a good night’s sleep before heading up to the mountains in the morning for some trekking.
I met my local guide Tejbir who would be with me the entire time in the mountains. He’s an experienced outdoors person, having lived most of his adult life either trekking around India for his own personal interest, or as part of his responsibilities with his adventure travel business. He and I would spend the next couple of days together discovering some of the expansive trails in the regions around Gulmag and Pahalgam, trails I would later discover were also used by bordering Pakistan’s military regime in the not so distant pass.
We arrived in Gulmag in about three hours, a popular ski resort town laying claim to having the highest cable car gondola lift in the world. With the elevation reaching 3950m, this is true Alpine trekking that can be experienced by everyone from novice day-hikers, to overnight high altitude experienced trekkers. We caught the gondola up to the top of Kongdoori Mountain, where the views were simply stunning. From here we ventured along the rocky mountainous terrain, past various species of goats and other wildlife scattered along the Apharwat peaks heading toward Alpather Lake. While there are no official trail markings, the natural progression of the trails made it quite easy to navigate. As well, hiking above the tree lines helped us maintain a clearer sense of direction. On our hike we passed a few nomadic gypsies making their way back up to their overnight camp with some provisions they had bartered for back in town. We were asked to share a pot of black tea with the family, before continuing on and winding our way back toward town.
The next day we woke early to make our way toward Pahalgam, a hill station town at an altitude of 2130m positioned along the mighty Liddar River, popular for white-water rafting in the summer months. It is also widely known as a health resort area, offering all sorts of natural healings and remedies, as well as the starting point for several hiking trails. The easiest and most popular of these is the short 3 km jaunt to Baisaran, an area surrounded by pristine waters and meadows. We did this as our morning warm up, before beginning our trek to the resort village of Aru 11 km away. After lunch, we made our way back in time for a delicious dinner and much deserved relaxation.
It should be noted that Kashmir is still a disputed territory bordered and administered by India, Pakistan, and China. Before insurgency intensified in 1989, tourism formed an important part of the Kashmiri economy, and today it is starting to return. While I was there Germany announced they were lifting the travel ban for its citizens, making them the first country in years to have done so. Once air bound on my return to Delhi I reflected back on my overall experience and would have no hesitation to return and explore further. It is one of those magical places that most people only read or dream about, yet never has an opportunity to visit. My checklist just got one destination shorter.
Sidebar
Visitor Information – www.go2kashmir.com, www.jktourism.org, www.gulmarg.org, www.pahalgam.com
Holiday Moods Adventures – www.holidaymoods.net
Air India – www.airindia.in
